Biting the bullet - any reasons not to get an MTX-L W/Band?

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 10:47 am

Hi Guys further to my link tuning questions, I am about to buy a MTX-L Wide Band controller to help me with tuning the car and thought i better ask for any opinions before i do so.....

It seems like it is compatible and might help me from making any disasterous tuning errors........

Can anyone confirm they have used this gauge with a G1 etc..?

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 5:48 pm

I HAVE, you just have to make sure you set either the yellow or brown analog output to narrow band simulation when you connect it to the ecu

the brown wire is set from factory to be used for NB simulation

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:18 pm

Hi Sprsta, does that mean the link won't accept wide band info...?

thats what "Setting it to narrow band simulation" sounds like..?

Or will this be more clear when I actually get the unit and attatch it?

Ps thanks for the info though, much appreciated. This is all very confusing to the noob.

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:54 pm

a G1 link will not accept the 5V WBO2 signal sent by the yellow wire
use the brown wire to send the ecu the 1V NBO2 simulation signal

The default analog outputs are as follows:
Analog output one (yellow) is 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR.
Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR.
This is a simulated narrowband signal

here is what i mean in pictures

that is the graph for a nbo2 sim

and the wbo2

hope this helps

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Wed Feb 29, 2012 10:30 pm

So it almost seems somewhat pointless if it is only going to operate between "simulated" 14.0 and 15.0 afr...?

edit - though having the actual reading on the gauge will help tuning so maybe not....

Incidentally I was looking through a datalog I saved recently and it occured to me it would be interesting to look at someone elses, compare settings of injectors and other bits and pieces. But I am also interested to see how other peoples IAT behaves (80 - 84 deg c seems high...) and water temp mine is at 84-88 deg c.....which may be normal..?

Do you have one you could email me?

Or vice versa, look at mine?

Keith Jones · Post by **Keith Jones** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:40 am

Where is the IAT being measured and under what conditions did you get 80+C? That's way higher than it should be for good power and engine life.
I don't record my IAT (measured in the inlet manifold) but I never seen higher than 40C even under full boost.

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:04 pm

my iat is usually around ambient air temp +or- 10*c
that is measured after intercooler but before throttle

your water temp is fine

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 2:30 pm

Thats what I thought.

I am not sure where it is picking it up from, will have to figure this out...

Timmo · Post by **Timmo** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:05 pm

Are you certain its degrees C and not F? Just a thought....

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:52 pm

Link data def says celsius, that was one of the brainwaves i had at one stage with an AHA moment. But sadly not.

But maybe it is labelled wrong... I think i'll check what 84 deg f is...maybe ballpark correct for a correct celsius figure.....

Cheers, more to look at.

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:32 pm

Just an update, My Link turns out to be G3 hardware with a G5 upgrade ECU. So my unit doesn't have the physical connections to actually take an IAT sensor but has the software....

I emailed Link and they confirmed it.

So the software somehow or other is adding the IAT and it now appears to be coming from the water temp. On analysing the data log I finally noticed the IAT was exactly 4 deg less than the Water temp and followed the changes perfectly.

So mixed result, great that I am not getting 80+ deg IAT but stink that my unit has no IAT mangement or control.

A couple of side benefits though, i ended up building a very effective cold air system. The intake pipe is significantly cooler than it was.

Plus I have now delved in to the Link and made some changes which resulted in an improvment to my initial throttle application hesitation/bog.

Certainly not perfect but a lot better and I haven't blown it up yet which means so far I am having fun

Also, thanks for the help, nice to bounce ideas around and get different perspectives from everyone.

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:35 pm

Keith, your Link is a similar Generation to mine, which leads me to wonder how you measure your IAT?

Keith Jones · Post by **Keith Jones** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:26 am

I've got a probe type thermistor screwed into the inlet manifold with a readout on the dash.
My Link is a G1 equivalent (original NZ MiataLink) so it doesn't have an IAT input.

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:18 am

Keith, are you running the original link software not the flyin miata chip?

Keith Jones · Post by **Keith Jones** » Tue Mar 06, 2012 12:06 pm

Yep. For racing purposes it's been fine. I've looked at upgrading several times over the years, but have always come back to "if it ain't broke, why fix it?"

Biting the bullet - any reasons not to get an MTX-L W/Band?

Biting the bullet - any reasons not to get an MTX-L W/Band?

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