Tapping the pan

VIKING RACING · Post by **VIKING RACING** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 9:32 pm

Have just taken off the the turbo and manifold for some painting, and the oil return hose was so brittle so it just broke. I had the return connected to the std pos under the oil filter.
Now I want to have it direct attached to the oilpan, anyone can tell me what connector you used and do we have something similar to JB weld (USA) here in NZ?

Miatamad · Post by **Miatamad** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:17 am

I did mine only a couple of weeks ago – I (well actually they are Mikes from the clubs) have all the bits (drill and tap) etc that you will need. If you are in Auckland feel free to give me a yell and you can use them (I can even give a hand if you want).

I used kneed-it as opposed to JB Weld and all seems ok so far.

Also I am using a braded s/s pipe for exactly the same reason you are mentioning.

C

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 4:50 pm

i used some loctite (3805?????) I think that was the number..its like jb weld... i used it on the dual feed fuel rail fittings also. It comes in a couple of small tubes and you mix it together.

Heres a tip for tapping your pan..I jammed a 12 point socket of the correct size on to the square end of the tap so i could the use a very long 1/2" extension bar to turn the tap from the wheel arch..this meant it was much easier to get it started and square on in the hole.

I used 3/8"bsp tap and the nipples were 3/8" bsp with a 5/8" hose nipple on it, and some 5/8" high temp oil line from the local aeroquip/hydraulics dealer....its blue and i think its made by goodyear..rated at over 150*C.

VIKING RACING · Post by **VIKING RACING** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:32 pm

Hi
I got the tap and Drill already at work (not extended ones) so I will give it a go.
But where should the hole be is the big question, tried to find it in US forum but gave up after 1/2 hour, maybe you guys can help me out?
I found a loctite 3801 could that be the same?
John

Miatamad · Post by **Miatamad** » Tue May 01, 2007 9:17 pm

How did you end up getting on with this??

My JBWeld died ;-( so I had to have the sump welded when I had the engine out.

It seems that the JBWeld (and its likes) seeps oil - not ideal.

C

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue May 01, 2007 11:04 pm

Miatamad wrote:....I had to have the sump welded when I had the engine out...

Hi MM, isn't it nice to have the forum back up and running! Anyway... why did the engine have to come out?? Clutch??

Live from a hotel in Sydney with a very very expensive internet connection..."

Miatamad · Post by **Miatamad** » Wed May 02, 2007 8:13 am

yeah!!! really nice having it back (big ups to Admins!!!),

The engine was out for the install of a new clutch (with lightened 1.8 flywheel), timing belt, water pump, balance and a good 'ol 'once over'

biff · Post by **biff** » Wed May 02, 2007 11:34 am

W00T, we are alive again, well done to all involved
Biff
ZOOM1N

Anthug · Post by **Anthug** » Wed May 02, 2007 5:11 pm

I took my sump to Enzed and they brazed they fitting on. No problems so far and it was cheap.

A.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Wed May 02, 2007 5:14 pm

Miatamad wrote:How did you end up getting on with this??

My JBWeld died ;-( so I had to have the sump welded when I had the engine out.

It seems that the JBWeld (and its likes) seeps oil - not ideal.

C

My car has now been running for over a year with the Loctite 3805 sealing the sump drain line and not even a hint of seepage.Loctite 3805 is designed to work at high temps and with fuel and oil....perfect.

Miatamad · Post by **Miatamad** » Thu May 03, 2007 8:59 am

I popped out to the garage and checked what I used - it was "kneed-it" - so it may have been because I was using an inferrior product.

Sorry if I put anyone wrong.

jojonz · Post by **jojonz** » Thu May 03, 2007 11:04 pm

We dropped the subframe, whipped off the sump and did the job properly welding an oil return to the sump just fwd of the engine mount.
Direct route and peace of mind at cleaning the sump out in the process.
Apart from having to support the engine in place there were no probs and total man hours were about 5. Basically eight bolts and steering rack bolt and another jack to support the subframe so you don't have to bleed the brakes, because it only needs to be dropped a few inches to remove the sump.
Fittings:
-12 AN Male aluminum weld-on
-12 AN to 3/4" Hose tail steel 90 deg
3/4" ID Oil and Fuel rated hose with Flame Retardant sheath.

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Fri May 04, 2007 10:02 am

jojonz wrote:We dropped the subframe, whipped off the sump and did the job properly welding an oil return to the sump just fwd of the engine mount.
Direct route and peace of mind at cleaning the sump out in the process.
Apart from having to support the engine in place there were no probs and total man hours were about 5. Basically eight bolts and steering rack bolt and another jack to support the subframe so you don't have to bleed the brakes, because it only needs to be dropped a few inches to remove the sump.
Fittings:
-12 AN Male aluminum weld-on
-12 AN to 3/4" Hose tail steel 90 deg
3/4" ID Oil and Fuel rated hose with Flame Retardant sheath.

That is the ideal way of doing it.

Miatamad · Post by **Miatamad** » Tue May 08, 2007 3:06 pm

Last night I was mucking around trying to swapout rollcages (anyone want an old rollcage???) - anyway while I was in the garage I took some quick pics of the pan tap for this thread in case it is of use to anybody.

The most important thing to remember is to ensure that the oil runs down at all times and that there are no kinks, or low spots prior to where it enters the pan - you may not be able to see this from the pics due to the camera angle) If you dont get this right you will have problems.

The only item I would change in the above post is the 90deg bend - I went with an upward 130 and I personally prefer this to the sharp bend.

*** Edit *** pic to come - forum is not allowing me to post upwards of 4k just at the moment.

VIKING RACING · Post by **VIKING RACING** » Sat May 12, 2007 3:20 pm

Miatamad wrote:How did you end up getting on with this??

My JBWeld died ;-( so I had to have the sump welded when I had the engine out.

It seems that the JBWeld (and its likes) seeps oil - not ideal.

C

I used Kneed It, no leaking yet, maybe I should get it brazed?
John

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Sun May 13, 2007 6:19 pm

"need it" isnt really made for high temp and oil......loctite 3805 is. I work in the fuel industry and its got me out of the crap several times...just make sure you clean the hole off to get the oil out of the area to sealed and make sure you have excess around the fitting so you can form it around the nipple to help seal it furthur.

Post by **zorruno** » Sun May 13, 2007 8:02 pm

Miatamad wrote:*** Edit *** pic to come - forum is not allowing me to post upwards of 4k just at the moment.

hopefully fixed - please let me know if you still have probs posting attachments (that goes for everyone...)

Miatamad · Post by **Miatamad** » Mon May 21, 2007 5:06 pm

Now that we can post pics greater than 4k

Here is the pic I mentioned previously regarding tapping the sump.

The angle is a little out but you should be able to work it out.

poison · Post by **poison** » Mon May 21, 2007 10:53 pm

Where did you get the nice hose made up??? I'm still thinking about water cooling for my turbo, or maybe add an oil cooler to keep the oil temps down.

Miatamad · Post by **Miatamad** » Tue May 22, 2007 2:42 pm

You can get them From Engine Specialties in Glenfield Auckland.
(Actually I had the hose and had to get them to shorten it for me.

As for cooling - if your turbo supports it water cooling is very easy to
do - and there is no reason why you would not do it.

As for oil cooling - Keith Jones has this on his car and from memory he
is not seeing any benefit - so personally Im unsure if this is worth the
effort (which is considerably more than water cooling).

Post by **zorruno** » Tue May 22, 2007 9:26 pm

Miatamad wrote:As for oil cooling - Keith Jones has this on his car and from memory he is not seeing any benefit - so personally Im unsure if this is worth the effort

I remember a while ago someone on the US or Power List doing calculations to show that it wasn't worth the added weight...

Post by **jif** » Tue May 22, 2007 9:43 pm

probably only of benefit if you're on the track, to prevent the oil overheating and breaking down - ie good insurance

Tapping the pan

Tapping the pan

Engine Out??

Tapping the pan

this time

Tapping the pan

Re: Tapping the pan

Tapping the pan

Who is online