Oils all round

Zadkiel · Post by **Zadkiel** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 12:18 pm

So I've had a read through of the existing oils threads but I feel my queries warrant a fresh thread.

I'm looking to use some of the new Castrol Edge Titanium for an oil change on my NA 1.8.

It has slightly unusual weights, so what should I use out of:

0-40
10-60
5-30

So the 10-60 and 5-30 seem to have quite big and quite small ranges respectively, 0-40 seems the most normal. What do you recon?

I am also looking to do the diff and gearbox oils (I'm replacing the driveshaft so I don't think I have much choice), any recommendations for what to use there?

Does the shifter take the same oil as the main body of the gearbox?

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:54 pm

Depends on where you are for engine oil?

Cold climate 0-40
Warm 5-30
Not sure why you would need a 10-60?

Most diff oils will do [80-90] unless you have LSD then get one suitable.
A standard gearbox oil is fine as well...as in everything depends on your purpose & budget!

Regular replacement is the key

Mr. Shine · Post by **Mr. Shine** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:12 pm

I'd say 0W-40 or 5W-30, but personally I'd rather take say Valvoline Synpower's 5W-40 over either of those.

Really, it also depends on what oil weight you're currently using and how much of that, if any, your engine goes through. 0W-40 may end up being slightly too thin on start-up, though it'll be fine once warm. 5W-30 may be fine on start up, but slightly thinner than you may like once warmed up.

Generally, if you find you're burning oil it seems to be advised to try the next highest viscosity oil, so if you're burning a small amount of oil on 5W-30 then you should go up to say a 5W-40 or 10W-40. If you're fine on the oil weight you've been using, try matching it as closely as possible.

Kieran · Post by **Kieran** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:22 pm

Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40

Redline MT-90 Transmission

Redline 75W90 Differential

Redline Power Steering Fluid

thats what I use on a general service havent had a single issue

Zadkiel · Post by **Zadkiel** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:46 pm

I'm in Auckland so warm enough. I've only just purchased the vehicle so I'm not sure what's in it currently. Doesn't seem to burn much/any though. I just like to do a change on purchasing a car because you never know how long it's been.

Everyone has a favourite, so brand wise I'm willing to give this Castrol a shot. Or anything else that has more than 3 backers.

Where can I get Redline stuff from?

Also can someone confirm the shifter oil is the same as the rest of the gearbox?

Kieran · Post by **Kieran** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 3:58 pm

theres a guy on trademe that sells redline products

the oils i use are a little more pricey but they have never failed me so i continue to splurge on the good stuff but "WideOpenThrottle" is correct regular changes are the key
the difference between the expensive products and the budget products is just time between changes

Im relatively certain the shifter oil is the same

punkoutnz · Post by **punkoutnz** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:24 pm

Turret oil is the same as gearbox oil. That redline stuff is good, but bloody expensive. Cheap oil in your gearbox may make for some crap cold shifting, or crap shifting in general.

Personally I run Magnatec 10W-40 cos I'm a tightass on this engine and I'll be building a new one anyway. But have run Castrol 10W-60 in my old pulsar with the engine that I built for that and never had any problems with that oil. Only way to really test though is to send it away for analysis and no one here is up for that!

m4vr1k · Post by **m4vr1k** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 5:15 pm

All of the oils quoted above, while excellent in their own right, are totally unnecessary for an early 90s 1.8 4pot. New engines require this kind of viscosity, a 20 year old engine does not. Now if you were running forced induction, a high powered naturally aspirated engine, or running in extreme temperatures this would be a different story.

The important part of choosing an oil is the rating, the current rating for oil is SM, SN is coming soon, and CI-4 for diesel. The rating determines the amount of additives and detergents in the oil. Newer cars require more of these additives for emissions standards.

These cars that we know and love were not designed with these kinds of oils in mind, hell, they didn't exist then, so spending a lot of money on high-quality modern oil is wasteful, and there are no real benefits.

Also, spend the extra and buy a good quality oil filter, I know too many people who spend upwards of $100 on oil, then skimp out on a 5 dollar filter.

Mr. Shine · Post by **Mr. Shine** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 6:52 pm

m4vr1k wrote:These cars that we know and love were not designed with these kinds of oils in mind, hell, they didn't exist then, so spending a lot of money on high-quality modern oil is wasteful, and there are no real benefits.

Pretty much why I buy the cheapest full synthetic I can find with the viscosity I need (5W-40), which is usually Valvoline Synpower for ~$50 on special

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 8:21 pm

A thinner oil is good on startup as it gets around the engine quicker.
I did use Mobil 1 there for a while...but that gave me crap oil presure.
I changed to a semi synthetic Penzzoil product and have never had any issues.
The oil stays really clean, and I have good pressure even after a few hot laps and everything is still hot.
And the answer to your other question is yes you can use the same oil for the shifter that is used for the gearbox.
Personally I use engine oil as its a little thinner but each to their own.

Mr. Shine · Post by **Mr. Shine** » Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:46 pm

Growler wrote:A thinner oil is good on startup as it gets around the engine quicker.

Of course, this is only true of the cold viscosity rating of the oil. I find 5W to be a good cold viscosity to avoid noisy hydraulic lash adjusters on start-up, but if you have solid lifters (NB engines?) or don't have noisy HLAs, then 10W should be more than suitable for cold starts.

pommy · Post by **pommy** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:21 pm

I know this is an old thread but rather than start a new one though I would tale onto this one.

I have read most threads I have serviced my 90 mx5 1600 with Magnatec as I always use this! however after roughly 500klms, have noticed today the lifters seemed noisy after the innitial start up?

once warm it really annoyed me, what would be the best remedy for this maybe oil wise or other? thanks.

warrior · Post by **warrior** » Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:43 am

I cant see why eveyone uses MT90 REDLINE in there gearbox? Read the info about it on FLYIN MIATA, they say it should only be used in race cars as it does not work well until hot. For day to day driving MT90 should not be used. Just because it costs the most does not always make it the best product for our cars.

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:10 am

pommy wrote:I know this is an old thread but rather than start a new one though I would tale onto this one.

I have read most threads I have serviced my 90 mx5 1600 with Magnatec as I always use this! however after roughly 500klms, have noticed today the lifters seemed noisy after the innitial start up?

once warm it really annoyed me, what would be the best remedy for this maybe oil wise or other? thanks.

no amount of oil changes will get rid of hla tick
here have a read

http://www.miata.net/garage/hla/cleaning.html

Nearly too late · Post by **Nearly too late** » Sun Jul 29, 2012 10:55 am

I have used Castrol Magnatec 10/40 in my 1990 1600 for some 50000 Kms now with out any isues winter or summer.
As stated in other replies using a good quality filter and changing oil and filter regularly ( 5000-7000Kms ) is the key.

Kieran · Post by **Kieran** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 11:17 am

warrior wrote:I cant see why eveyone uses MT90 REDLINE in there gearbox? Read the info about it on FLYIN MIATA, they say it should only be used in race cars as it does not work well until hot. For day to day driving MT90 should not be used. Just because it costs the most does not always make it the best product for our cars.

It works well in street driven 6speeds I hear all the 6speed drivers swear by it so I will post what I think when i finally get around to it Ive got it sitting at home gathering dust haha

Angreal · Post by **Angreal** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 12:26 pm

sprsta wrote:
pommy wrote:I know this is an old thread but rather than start a new one though I would tale onto this one.

I have read most threads I have serviced my 90 mx5 1600 with Magnatec as I always use this! however after roughly 500klms, have noticed today the lifters seemed noisy after the innitial start up?

once warm it really annoyed me, what would be the best remedy for this maybe oil wise or other? thanks.
no amount of oil changes will get rid of hla tick
here have a read

http://www.miata.net/garage/hla/cleaning.html

Man, fixing it sounds like such a mission. The NB cams and lifters also sounds like a mission to install. I might give the NB cam/lifter swap a go in the distant future maybe but I think I'd need a plan B (someone comes and finished the job in my garage when I get 80% of the way) before I attempt it

halberd · Post by **halberd** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:11 pm

I had that TAK TAK TAK TAK when I first got my MX5, changed the oil and it still happened. I learned to live with it. Changed to 10w-30 fully synthetic and it suddenly stopped! Haven't heard any ticking at all. Just my 2c

Kieran · Post by **Kieran** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:23 pm

Isnt 10W-30 the recommended Oil? Or is it 10W-40??

I used 5W-30 in my 98' and havent heard the solid lifters since

Mr. Shine · Post by **Mr. Shine** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:47 pm

Some have reported success after using what is known as the 2twisty flush. Google it. Perform at your own risk, your mileage may vary.

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:09 pm

Just wanted to backup what was posted above by Growler.

When my new clutch was installed the mechanic recommended using engine oil as he was told at a conference that most gearboxes work well with it. Improved shifting etc...That many "gearbox" oils were too slippery and the synchros can't work properly.

I was a bit nervous but have experieced the exact same thing with my race bikes....(you don't want to miss a shift in a national MX race on the face of some hairy ass jump!)

Turns out he was right. Shifts beautifully even when cold and shifting to second cold had always been a bit of a problem.

Oils all round

Oils all round

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