Water leaks into cockpit
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MrGrey
- I have stars, you haven't. Deal with it
- Posts: 1172
- Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:52 am
- Location: Northland
posted on behalf of GRUVBB 
My first attempt at repairing my rain rail was not fully successful as I tried to repair in one afternoon. I have now borrowed a shed and taken two days to sort it.
My original rail was cracked in too many places so started with a fresher one supplied by Ross. It has been reinforced with Duct tape or 100 mile an hour tape as more affectionately called. I originally fitted it without riveting it to the soft top but changed my mind and pulled it back out. i then secured with stainless/stainless rivets backed with stainless washers. This resulted in a much tighter fit which I hope will reduce noise levels fractionally more.
Once the rail and backing plate are attached to the soft top it is quite tricky to manoeuvre into position.... I suspect this is how my original rail got so broken and torn by a previous DIY apprentice. I found that if the middle section is lifted up toward the top middle of roof the ends also lift up and are able to locate back into rear parcel tray area without damaging the curved ends.
Once I had secured soft top to rail with rivets i marked where the boot holes needed to be and applied another lay of tape over the top. I then pushed a screwdriver through the appropriate holes indicated by the pen lines. The screwdriver had a similar shaft size as the studs/bolts...M6. Once all the holes were established it made locating a lot easier.
Once the ends were located it was simple to press the rail onto the mounting studs. With all the studs pressed through the rail it was time to position clamps. I tightened from the middle outwards thinking this would locate better and push any (hopefully none) excess out towards the ends rather than creating a fold where water could enter. With middle clamp rail secured I did the two radial clamps. I found that there was more tension on the roof after riveting rail to soft top. The finished look was much nicer.i was no longer able to see the stitched seam which had leaked previously. I had applied RTV Slicone to the seams as suggested by Ross. This was easy with soft top pulled out over the boot and left to cure overnight.(much better than trying to do in 1 afternoon.)
With the clamps all tightly secured it was time to roll the car outside for a water test. Success at last. I found it easier to have a helper when applying the duct tape so as to get a smooth finish. One to hold the rail and the other to stretch the tape and lay it down in one continuous motion.
Feel free to PM me if you are tackling this job and want some advice. If in Auckland I can probably pop in and assist. The removal only takes about 10-15 mins and refit about 30. The longest part is the silicone curing.
This is the seam once the silicone has cured. I am leaving it in this state as it is no longer visible with the tension on the soft top. I felt that by riveting the softop back onto the rail gave it extra strength as it was designed originally. Without it the soft top was tensioned against one side of the studs creating a pressure point. Once riveted the load appears to be spread over both sides of the stud.
My first attempt at repairing my rain rail was not fully successful as I tried to repair in one afternoon. I have now borrowed a shed and taken two days to sort it.
My original rail was cracked in too many places so started with a fresher one supplied by Ross. It has been reinforced with Duct tape or 100 mile an hour tape as more affectionately called. I originally fitted it without riveting it to the soft top but changed my mind and pulled it back out. i then secured with stainless/stainless rivets backed with stainless washers. This resulted in a much tighter fit which I hope will reduce noise levels fractionally more.
Once the rail and backing plate are attached to the soft top it is quite tricky to manoeuvre into position.... I suspect this is how my original rail got so broken and torn by a previous DIY apprentice. I found that if the middle section is lifted up toward the top middle of roof the ends also lift up and are able to locate back into rear parcel tray area without damaging the curved ends.
Once I had secured soft top to rail with rivets i marked where the boot holes needed to be and applied another lay of tape over the top. I then pushed a screwdriver through the appropriate holes indicated by the pen lines. The screwdriver had a similar shaft size as the studs/bolts...M6. Once all the holes were established it made locating a lot easier.
Once the ends were located it was simple to press the rail onto the mounting studs. With all the studs pressed through the rail it was time to position clamps. I tightened from the middle outwards thinking this would locate better and push any (hopefully none) excess out towards the ends rather than creating a fold where water could enter. With middle clamp rail secured I did the two radial clamps. I found that there was more tension on the roof after riveting rail to soft top. The finished look was much nicer.i was no longer able to see the stitched seam which had leaked previously. I had applied RTV Slicone to the seams as suggested by Ross. This was easy with soft top pulled out over the boot and left to cure overnight.(much better than trying to do in 1 afternoon.)
With the clamps all tightly secured it was time to roll the car outside for a water test. Success at last. I found it easier to have a helper when applying the duct tape so as to get a smooth finish. One to hold the rail and the other to stretch the tape and lay it down in one continuous motion.
Feel free to PM me if you are tackling this job and want some advice. If in Auckland I can probably pop in and assist. The removal only takes about 10-15 mins and refit about 30. The longest part is the silicone curing.
This is the seam once the silicone has cured. I am leaving it in this state as it is no longer visible with the tension on the soft top. I felt that by riveting the softop back onto the rail gave it extra strength as it was designed originally. Without it the soft top was tensioned against one side of the studs creating a pressure point. Once riveted the load appears to be spread over both sides of the stud.
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Synco
- Hey. They are NOT Training wheels.
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:14 pm
- Location: Auckland
I'm having a similar problem as the OP,
I've noticed in heavy downpours that water will occasionally drip into the passenger footwell from the far bottom corner of the door on my 94 NA, I've pulled the carpet up on the passenger side and found the base of the False Floor Plate as well as the bracket where it mounts to the floor have both rusted away. Some treatment and spraypaint is evident from a previous owner but they hadn't fixed the source of the leak as far as i believe. While i find out for certain where the water leak or main water leak is really coming from i was wondering where the best place to source a new foot plate and mounting bracket from would be?
As for the water getting in at the far base of the door, i dont believe the door is sealing properly where the metal 'MX5' panel on the base of the door frame ends and the plastic tubing starts to run upwards on the inside.
I don't have Air Conditioning as mine is a New Zealand new NA, and it's had a hard top on for the last few years i believe.
Any ideas or past experience in this matter would be greatly accepted
I've noticed in heavy downpours that water will occasionally drip into the passenger footwell from the far bottom corner of the door on my 94 NA, I've pulled the carpet up on the passenger side and found the base of the False Floor Plate as well as the bracket where it mounts to the floor have both rusted away. Some treatment and spraypaint is evident from a previous owner but they hadn't fixed the source of the leak as far as i believe. While i find out for certain where the water leak or main water leak is really coming from i was wondering where the best place to source a new foot plate and mounting bracket from would be?
As for the water getting in at the far base of the door, i dont believe the door is sealing properly where the metal 'MX5' panel on the base of the door frame ends and the plastic tubing starts to run upwards on the inside.
I don't have Air Conditioning as mine is a New Zealand new NA, and it's had a hard top on for the last few years i believe.
Any ideas or past experience in this matter would be greatly accepted
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