Few quirks my MX has, anyone had these before?

Wickmyster · Post by **Wickmyster** » Wed May 01, 2013 9:44 pm

I recently bought a NA6 manuaol steering and window (what I wanted) but It has a few little issues:

1. I know this is common, but does anyone have a good fix for the hot air up the gear stick issue? (mazda wants $99 for the insulator 0_0)

2. I rattle/kock/metallic clunk when reversing (sometimes) and when I go over bumps fromt he drivers side rear wheel.

3. Coolent smell when I and driving at full noise ;D (which happens regulaly) (heater core leaking when under 7000rpm of waterpump preasure?)

4. How can I get my butt closer to the floor????? Strip foam from the factory seat and use bare seat shell with some thin memroy foam?

5. The well used beast has a bonnet rattle, I can tighten it up! all I can do is space it , but then then it sits to high...might get sdome bonnet pins asap!

6. not and issue like 4, but does anyone know where to get some rear tiop hats for extra shoack travel in the rear of my NA like FM has??

Thanks for the read, I have searched for all of these, but I got tired of trying to sift through all of the results sorry -_-.

Furai · Post by **Furai** » Wed May 01, 2013 11:23 pm

I can help with 2 of them.

The bonnet rattle should be adjusted on the front latch.

NB tophats can be bought $25 each from Mazda, you will just need the bushes(I have a set you can have for $30). Or Cole/Sprsta can make up some that give you heaps of travel.

MrGrey · Post by **MrGrey** » Wed May 01, 2013 11:27 pm

regarding #4) Quite a few people have cut foam from their OEM seats to give them more room. the process is called a foamectomy.

here a guide that may be helpful
http://www.screamingtyres.com/?p=8653

I cannot vouch for the guide as its a mod I have not needed to do but I hope this helps.

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Thu May 02, 2013 8:05 am

You really need to buy the gaiter for the stick or pack extra foam/underlay [it works for our NB].

The hinges are what rattle most on the bonnet and they should have a little rubber packer by the hinge/guard.

Its most likely your exhaust is hitting at the rear

Are you losing coolant out the cap...or more likely its the water pump leaking...if you can see rusty water stains down by the water pump/crank pulley area then its time to replace it

Wickmyster · Post by **Wickmyster** » Thu May 02, 2013 11:05 am

Awesome, thanks heap for the info guys.

I will have a look into the options for shock travel

I think my radiator might have a slight leak as there is fluid on the plastic sheild at the bottom of the engine bay after some high rev action. Pop ed the bonnet and some faint mist was comming up from it, but coud not treack down from where exactly.

Foamectomy is now on the cards.
I think my bonnet rattle is from my worn u bolt/striker....and I can seem to adjuct my latch ?:/

Just rebuild my rear calipers, that go rid of some of my rear end rattle

...but will have a look at exhaust and shock bolts etc soon

anyone have some tein s techs for sale??? As you can see...the front of my car it riding a bit high

Kieran · Post by **Kieran** » Thu May 02, 2013 12:18 pm

check the exhaust hangers they are usually on there last legs

I bought a short shifter kit from the USA because of the price of the factory replacements

authentic · Post by **authentic** » Thu May 02, 2013 2:52 pm

I had an issue identical to #2, and feared the worst.

Turns out my exhaust hangers were too soft and allowed the exhaust tip to bang against the frame. Sit in your car and get someone to push/kick the exhaust into the frame and see if it sounds the same.

I got 3 polyurethane exhaust hangers from BNT for like $20 bucks, much harder than the rubber hangers and holds the exhaust still. Fixed the problem completely.

silvertop · Post by **silvertop** » Thu May 02, 2013 6:39 pm

I was having issues with the rear dampers contacting their bump stops, which was solved with 1" ISC top hats. Minor increase in nvh but really happy with them, ended up getting some .5" ones for the front too.
They ended up costing about $40 apiece shipped from the states, but there are some guys on here who can fabricate them locally, probably for a much lower price.

Wickmyster · Post by **Wickmyster** » Sat May 18, 2013 2:08 pm

silvertop wrote:I was having issues with the rear dampers contacting their bump stops, which was solved with 1" ISC top hats. Minor increase in nvh but really happy with them, ended up getting some .5" ones for the front too.
They ended up costing about $40 apiece shipped from the states, but there are some guys on here who can fabricate them locally, probably for a much lower price.

Anyone know how to tighten up the bonnet latch? or replace the striker?

Mines rattling away....might ust jab in some bonnet pins and be done with it :/

BTW what are ISC top hats?
And NVH = Noise vibration harshness?

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Sat May 18, 2013 3:36 pm

Some info

GRUVBB · Post by **GRUVBB** » Sat May 18, 2013 8:14 pm

My gear stick gets warm. I sorted it by tying the top of the gaitor with a black cable tie. Wen I changed gearbox turret oil last week I pulled it apart. I noticed the rubber has perished underneath. I shoved some carpet insulation in there for now.... Just had a thought that a Dektite might do the same thing. These are in trades for external roof and wall penetrations. They have a stepped pyramid shape of rubber which can be cut to required hole size and pipes or conduits pass through them. They are only about twenty dollars. They have an aluminium strip bossed onto the base to provide mechanical strength when fastening them. They come in a multitude of sizes. I can not load pics on this forum but can email them if you wish. I will pull it apart tomorrow and take pics and see if it will suffice..... I have actually left the cable tie of now it's getting cooler as I like the warm breeze onto my hand. Compensates for the cold head from having the roof off. Mr Grey would probably have an idea of the cost of them. I buy wholesale as I'm in the trade scene and avoid retail. I'm allergic to astronomical markup and corporate greed.

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Sat May 18, 2013 8:40 pm

You could find that the rubber type used may not suit automotive type use if oil or grease comes in contact with it and perishes prematurely.Keep an eye on and see how it holds up.

GRUVBB · Post by **GRUVBB** » Sat May 18, 2013 9:04 pm

Just checked my folder of car pics from last weeks workathon and looks like they would fit. I have been using Dektite for years in many industrial environments. They stand up to a heck of a lot of elements. They sit in direct sun light for years without degrading. Seen them covered in machine oil from press brakes extruders etc. brought a couple this week for a job which I think one will become a forum experiment. Will document it with pics and email to someone who can then load Them onto forum from a PC.... A friend of mine told me last night that the Apple platform is prob not compatable with this forums. I have a PC but have forgotten my password as it has not been used for two years no I have a work Pad.

GRUVBB · Post by **GRUVBB** » Sat May 18, 2013 9:09 pm

Ooopppsss!!! Just google EPDM rubber and alas it says it is not compatible with oils kerosene etc..... Sorry everyone.

GRUVBB · Post by **GRUVBB** » Sat May 18, 2013 9:17 pm

3:...coolant smell at high revs. Could your cooling system be pressurising and blowing back into receiver and coming out pressure overflow??? Maybe check around the breather pipes associated with the make up tank set...... I'm still going to try a Dektite as oil leaks downwards from gearbox not up. It's mostly dust in this area. The originals fail as well after time. It's a cheap gamble for me to take. I'm sure it won't spontaneously ignite. They withstand heat as they are used in closer proximity to flues hot pipes etc

GRUVBB · Post by **GRUVBB** » Sat May 18, 2013 9:42 pm

I just Googled Dek industries material and data sheets. They do a silicone Dektite which says ....No known incompatibility with normal range of industrial materials.... Will contact them and confirm if automotive oils are ok wit them.

TehAshleigh · Post by **TehAshleigh** » Sun May 19, 2013 12:07 pm

I havent read any of the replies to this (so sorry if im just adding to any spam).

My gearbox ran really hot;because its lowered but mostly because the gearbox oil hadnt been changed for a while. I took the car down to my local mechanic, spent $20 on gearbox oil and changed it. Its run perfectly since - no hot air or anything.

Wickmyster · Post by **Wickmyster** » Sat Jun 01, 2013 4:51 pm

Bonnet rattle fixed...care of some oldschool wildcat bonnet pins

Jst the exhaust rattle to fix. My first rattle was my rear calipers which are supported by some rubber bushes had worn out. Rebuilt calipers and nerw bushes...not not a peep, or leak

Few quirks my MX has, anyone had these before?

Few quirks my MX has, anyone had these before?

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