From the ashes... What did you do to your roadster today?

Discussion about MX5s, Roadsters & Miatas, not directly fitting into one of the categories below. Please keep it on topic.

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SLYDIT
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Post by SLYDIT » Mon Jun 02, 2014 4:56 pm

ive stopped going on miataturbo.net lately as the "new guys" who have only been members for 5 or so years are total fuckwits.... ive been a member on that site since before it even changed in 2004ish. and just because i dont spend 24/7 on there posting shit all the time, they think i'm a newb because of my post count......the little turds. i know more about mx5 turbo'ing than they ever will.

having said that there are some total newb dickheads who post shit like "can i just drop in a 323 turbo engine and ECU?' FFS if it could be done there'd be no fucken 323 turbos left on the road ya newbtard
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002

evel
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Post by evel » Mon Jun 02, 2014 10:06 pm

warrior wrote:Evel, how far do your flares stick out?
There supposed to be an extra 40mm
'94 S-Special 1800 in BLACK
Flares and 225/45 Semi Slicks.

Junkwhale
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Post by Junkwhale » Tue Jun 03, 2014 12:03 am

BRM wrote:
Junkwhale wrote:
Image

Update?
Been driving with it like this in the car for a few days now to see what it's like...and it's revolutionary.

My head is no longer anywhere near the roof, and the dash is finally at the right level - previously sitting at stock height my view of the speedo was intersected at about half-way up by the steering wheel. Now when I look at the dash I can see the entire tacho/speedo through the steering wheel.

Comfort wise... it's fine, but still needs work. I probably wouldn't enjoy a long drive in its current state. The 10mm closed cell foam padding on the bottom part is firm but plenty comfy for me (it's actually foam cut from a sleeping mat/roll). The main issue is that while my butt sits fine in the scooped bit at the bottom of the seat, my hips contact the sharper angle on each side (circled in yellow):

Image

When I get a chance I'm going to cut/mold some foam so that there is a continuous curve joining the bolsters with the foam strip/bottom cushion. I may need another layer of foam in the bottom of the seat to make the curve comfortable, but I think it should only add another 5mm or so. Using memory foam may also be a good idea (think para-rubber sells some) as it will mold round the sharp curve of the seat when you sit on it.

I'm also going to hammer out some more in the red circled area to give a smoother curve from the bottom/butt part of the seat to the front/thighs part.

Junkwhale
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Post by Junkwhale » Tue Jun 03, 2014 12:08 am

Also, getting in and out is a bit harder too, but that's more a function of how far you have to sit down rather than anything getting in the way - whatever height the floor pan is, that's basically the height you have to clamber down too.

It's not nearly as hard as a fixed back seat with high sides though. I've test fitted a couple of bucket seats and they're way harder to get into with the high sides/bolsters and trying to squeeze between them and the steering wheel.

Junkwhale
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Post by Junkwhale » Tue Jun 03, 2014 12:13 am

CordedBowl wrote:Hey Junkwhale, I dunno if the 10mm closed cell foam would be enough for your butt, it might be fine for short drives but over a distance it'd get annoying, I have offcuts (many meters) of closed cell foam that could be layered up that's yours if you want to come pick it up, but I seem to remember you're at the other end of the country (can't see location of that I've started typing this!)

The next best thing I could recommend is the foam used in sound deadening/camping mattresses, it's about 30mm thick and can be had for cheap, just turn it upside down so the knobbly bits aren't poking your butt (although on this forum, whatever floats your boat!)

Awesome diy though.
Cheers for the offer for foam - have a few rolls/mats of old 10mm closed cell foam that I can cut up so should be all good.

warrior
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Post by warrior » Tue Jun 03, 2014 5:19 pm

Finally got round to adjusting the dashpot to try and cure my idle droop on the supercharger.

Wish I had done it months ago, idle is now rock steady under all conditions and no more staling at lights.

8)
warrior

MrGrey
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Post by MrGrey » Thu Jun 05, 2014 4:56 pm

I got productive today and fit the 25mm spacers on my car... sadly the front ones rub the guards like crazy so I have taken them off and left the rears on which seem ok....

here is a pic with the spacers on the rear vs the front which have no spacers installed.
Image

Joel
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Post by Joel » Thu Jun 05, 2014 9:59 pm

nothing a guard rolling wont fix

BRM
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Post by BRM » Thu Jun 05, 2014 11:43 pm

Joel wrote:nothing a guard rolling wont fix
this.

BRM
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Post by BRM » Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:28 pm

Since i don't wanna start a .. what did you do in your shop today thread..

i'll just ad to here..

Image
Image
Shitty before and afters..
Going to hire some scaffolding to do the top then the walls done
Then machine sand the floor so it's perfect and smooth and done!
Image
another side I never take pictures of.

Angreal
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Post by Angreal » Wed Jun 11, 2014 9:24 pm

I recognise that place. That hoist doesn't fit under my car :wink:

GRUVBB
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Post by GRUVBB » Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:46 am

Fresh paint looks smart..... A cheaper option to hiring scaffold is to get an extendable pole. You can then stand on the ground to paint. I use one from a house washing set. Was only $20 and made of aluminium so fairly robust. :idea:

SkilletKid
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Post by SkilletKid » Thu Jun 12, 2014 1:53 pm

Workshop is coming along nice! So jealous haha.
"Yes, you got that, 16 years of [MX5] ownership and you too can become the Obi-wan Kenobi of not giving a s**t." - Moti

BRM
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Post by BRM » Thu Jun 12, 2014 2:23 pm

GRUVBB wrote:Fresh paint looks smart..... A cheaper option to hiring scaffold is to get an extendable pole. You can then stand on the ground to paint. I use one from a house washing set. Was only $20 and made of aluminium so fairly robust. :idea:
That's done with the shorter pole..
It's pretty high, and i think i'd lose pressure on the wall and the paint wont be as thick..

things and stuff.



Spanner day when all this is done

GRUVBB
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Post by GRUVBB » Thu Jun 12, 2014 6:10 pm

I have a couple of robust extension ladders you can borrow to elevate you further up wall if interested. They will reach rhe top of that roof no probs. I understand that a scaffold is more stable than a ladder but also comes at a hireage fee. No pressure. Your call. :)

GRUVBB
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Post by GRUVBB » Thu Jun 12, 2014 6:12 pm

Another option is to put that piece of plywood on a roofrack on top of a van and work from there.... Keep the door shut so OSH cant see in though.

marcellarius
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Post by marcellarius » Fri Jun 13, 2014 12:41 pm

Today I pulled the seat out and pulled the carpet back to discover just how bad my car leaked over the last couple of days.


.. shit, worse than expected
Attachments
floorpan_water.jpg

BRM
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Post by BRM » Fri Jun 13, 2014 2:29 pm

Thanks GRUVBB, I'm ok with the scaffold, feels safer XD And its cheap and easy.. no up and down to paint the roller.

Will be done this weekend I hope.

4A-GE
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Post by 4A-GE » Fri Jun 13, 2014 3:31 pm

Ooh. More sound deadening for me to tear out. :D

GRUVBB
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Post by GRUVBB » Fri Jun 13, 2014 4:39 pm

Hey Marcellarius... i used to have a duck pond like that but it was around my ECU!!! It was a stuffed rain rail to allow that volume in. Check your boot carpets as well. If it is a split rain rail water will ingress through different places depending on where it is compromised. 100 mile an hour tape is good for fixing a split rain rail..... Been There Done That if you want any pointers. :idea:

marcellarius
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Post by marcellarius » Fri Jun 13, 2014 4:48 pm

Under the seat was surprisingly dry, as was the passenger side (yay, no wet ECU) so I'm thinking it was either the window weather seals (they fill up with water when it rains) or an issue with corrosion damage around windscreen/seam above door hinge (which has gotten worse faster than I've gotten money to fix it)

Cars.. damn money sponges :(

SLYDIT
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Post by SLYDIT » Fri Jun 13, 2014 4:58 pm

There is a side join in the fat weather seal that will drip onto the seat. When you fold the top you'll see what I mean. Give the seals a bit of a tweak night stop it. But dont hold your breath
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002

GRUVBB
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Post by GRUVBB » Fri Jun 13, 2014 5:01 pm

Sounds like your on to it. Under my seats was dry also but once replaced rain rail with a freshened one the leaks stopped..... Could be worse.... Could be your wifes car in which case you would have to take a loan to get it fixed LAST WEEK!

SLYDIT
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Post by SLYDIT » Fri Jun 13, 2014 5:02 pm

check out http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ for some freakin wicked ideas for garages. I have already got my new house build garage planned out with bench/storage/stereo and attic lift! seriously its a must see website for us blokes.
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002

GRUVBB
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Post by GRUVBB » Fri Jun 13, 2014 5:18 pm

That is Full On Automotive Porn.... Guaranteed to keep people off this forum for a while drooling over other folks Man Caves!!!

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