Wanting to get an MX5 but which one ?
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Wanting to get an MX5 but which one ?
Hi everyone! I am looking to buy an MX5 within the next month and am after advice from all. I have a maximum budget of $6500 to spend and want to know whether to buy the 1st gen or 2nd gen car and whether to get a 1600cc or 1800cc engine. It has to be manual transmission and it is at present for weekend fun only but may have to become a daily driver as I may be changing jobs soon and losing the use of a company car. I will need to get golf clubs in the boot (I curently have a Porsche 944 convertible that I have just sold). Any advice is welcome. I would also like to get something that can be tuned in the future (i.e supercharger or maybe turbo kit) and am keen on doing track days. Thanks in anticipation for any suggestions you may have.
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Welcome!
You wont get much second gen Roadster for that sort of price bracket. The 1600 is a bit gutless and doesnt have the beefed up drivetrain the 1800cc does nor the good diff(Size, LSDs are not in all of them). Because you want to possibly tune in the future 1800 is the way to go.
So I would go for a low Kms 1800 and try get a hardtop with it, as its cheaper and once you have one its so much nicer for daily driving!
You wont get much second gen Roadster for that sort of price bracket. The 1600 is a bit gutless and doesnt have the beefed up drivetrain the 1800cc does nor the good diff(Size, LSDs are not in all of them). Because you want to possibly tune in the future 1800 is the way to go.
So I would go for a low Kms 1800 and try get a hardtop with it, as its cheaper and once you have one its so much nicer for daily driving!
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The only down side for me is the pop-up lights on the mark ones...heavy,pain in the arse for night driving,looks ugly when up!..also think about not having air-bags if you want a sports steering wheel,otherwise for me an NB 1800 for sure.
1989 NA 1650
1998 NB 1800
2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
Surfboard
Push-bike
Hiking shoes
1998 NB 1800
2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
Surfboard
Push-bike
Hiking shoes
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if you plan on modifying or turboing then go for the 1st gen 1800. the 1800's have bigger brakes, bigger diff and revised gearbox syncros which make it more suitable for modification.
forget about the second gen for that money..it will be junk.
for an mx5 its always good to look for one that has the nice bits already on it like 15" wheels, better suspension and importantly a good soft top or hardtop.
depending on where you are this may be worth a look. i'm sure someone in the club or on here could go along with you to check it out..
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 686943.htm
my best advice is to test drive lots before buying. some cars at $7000 are rattly old bags of bolts and some for $4000 are nice and tight. once you drive a few youll learn what a good gearbox and suspension feels like compared to a flogged one.
forget about the second gen for that money..it will be junk.
for an mx5 its always good to look for one that has the nice bits already on it like 15" wheels, better suspension and importantly a good soft top or hardtop.
depending on where you are this may be worth a look. i'm sure someone in the club or on here could go along with you to check it out..
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 686943.htm
my best advice is to test drive lots before buying. some cars at $7000 are rattly old bags of bolts and some for $4000 are nice and tight. once you drive a few youll learn what a good gearbox and suspension feels like compared to a flogged one.
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
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Or get a good condition, low km's NA 1600. Buy a brake kit, diff and then turbo it and you end up without much difference.
1800 engines are getting hard to come by here if you pop one.
*EDIT*
The above link to an MX5 - I went and viewed it when I bought mine and the thing is fucked. Every panel is a slightly different colour, seats are both torn, inside is dirty as hell. Brake booster/MC has leaked causing rust in engine bay, and 2 dents in it. Don't waste your time.
It started at 6k about 4 months ago...
1800 engines are getting hard to come by here if you pop one.
*EDIT*
The above link to an MX5 - I went and viewed it when I bought mine and the thing is fucked. Every panel is a slightly different colour, seats are both torn, inside is dirty as hell. Brake booster/MC has leaked causing rust in engine bay, and 2 dents in it. Don't waste your time.
It started at 6k about 4 months ago...
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Thanks for the advice so far. I guess I will have to take my golf clubs with me and try the boot out for size on an NA and NB (I am guessing looking at the pictures that the boot in the NA is too small). Before I got my Porsche I breifly had a 2001 Toyota MRS which was great fun but even less practical then any of the MX5s being mid engined. I have seen this on Trade Me and may go and have a look at it (listing number 553630309)
Again feel free to let me know if you know anything about this particular car (good or bad). Cheers.
Again feel free to let me know if you know anything about this particular car (good or bad). Cheers.
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Check where the windscreen and the bonnet meet for a crack in that sealant. Quite a sure fire way to tell if its ever been in a frontal (About 50% of MX5s I looked at had rust there. If it has roadster plates on the sills check under them for rust. Check under spare tyre for rust. Check the seals around the windows for gaps where the soft top joins. Check if the clubs fit in the passenger seat 

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theres something not right about that car. RS's have 15" wheels and most have body kits. an RS with 14" wheels and no bodykit just doesnt sit right. also the soft top is just about shagged.ryanhorton1973 wrote:Thanks for the advice so far. I guess I will have to take my golf clubs with me and try the boot out for size on an NA and NB (I am guessing looking at the pictures that the boot in the NA is too small). Before I got my Porsche I breifly had a 2001 Toyota MRS which was great fun but even less practical then any of the MX5s being mid engined. I have seen this on Trade Me and may go and have a look at it (listing number 553630309)
Again feel free to let me know if you know anything about this particular car (good or bad). Cheers.
i reckon that this car is the bargain on Trademe at the moment:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 218883.htm
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
SLYDIT wrote:theres something not right about that car. RS's have 15" wheels and most have body kits. an RS with 14" wheels and no bodykit just doesnt sit right. also the soft top is just about shagged.ryanhorton1973 wrote:Thanks for the advice so far. I guess I will have to take my golf clubs with me and try the boot out for size on an NA and NB (I am guessing looking at the pictures that the boot in the NA is too small). Before I got my Porsche I breifly had a 2001 Toyota MRS which was great fun but even less practical then any of the MX5s being mid engined. I have seen this on Trade Me and may go and have a look at it (listing number 553630309)
Again feel free to let me know if you know anything about this particular car (good or bad). Cheers.
i reckon that this car is the bargain on Trademe at the moment:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 218883.htm
my 98 RS never came with a body kit..no rear spoiler..nothing..have full kit now but I brought that in from usa.
I agree on the 14s tho but it probably had some nice wheels on it and he is selling it with the 14s just to keep price down and probably sold the better wheels to a mate.
1998 NB MX5 RS TURBO.
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Just remember a cheap car may not be so cheap by the time you buy a soft top or get the cambelt or gearbox done. As I said do a bit of test driving. The stock of cars in auck at the moment is very average. Maybe as autumn rolls around some good cars will get shaken out.
RED '90 TURBO.
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SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
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Hi. Have taken an NA out today and liked the way it drove but the boot is far too small for me to justify buying one. Also took out an NB today (Trade Me listing number 552161773) Drove nice and no unusual knocks, bangs and nice and smooth on acceleration. Hood may need doing in the future but ok for now. Had a chat with the person selling it and they have agreed a price of $7000 including the air con being regassed as it wasn't working when I test drove it. Has a small dent in the drivers side rear quater panel but other than that to my eyes looks like a nice straight honest car. I can get my golf bag in the boot if I take out the woods which isn't a major issue. If anyone on here is free and the car doesn't sell by the time the guy buying my Porsche pays me for it then I'd appreciate a more expert opinion (Happy to pay for their time in a few cold beers!). If it sells then I guess there will be another opportunity for another one.
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why didnt i see that? oh yeah the dumbass seller cant spell mx5.
for 7K why not. remember a top is 1200 bucks and once they start to look tatty they go down hill very fast.At least it has the better wheels and bodykit.
take a couple more for a drive to compare and see if its a good one or not.
for 7K why not. remember a top is 1200 bucks and once they start to look tatty they go down hill very fast.At least it has the better wheels and bodykit.
take a couple more for a drive to compare and see if its a good one or not.
RED '90 TURBO.
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
SCARING PRIUS DRIVERS SINCE 2002
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Wanting to buy an 1800 NA now !
Hi all. Having gone to a u sell yard and actually fitting my golf clubs and trolley, trolley wheels and golf shoes in the boot of an NA and the fact my budget has been cut from around $6500 to around $4500 now can every one keep there eyes on the look out for an 1800 NA for me to buy. I have taken a few for a drive and have found one in Hamilton but it is red and I don't want the hassle of constantly fighting paint fade. Ideally looking for white or silver but will consider any colour apart from red (and pink!). Also need it to be low kms (150 and under) as looking to supercharge it in the near(ish) future. Thanks.
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Have you checked out Mr.Shine's old ride:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =558997431
The sum if it's parts are way less than asking price!
I was tempted to get it just for the parts...
-I have no affiliation with Mr.Shine by the way, never even met the guy.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =558997431
The sum if it's parts are way less than asking price!
I was tempted to get it just for the parts...
-I have no affiliation with Mr.Shine by the way, never even met the guy.
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.
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And heres something to think about...
Difference between 1800/1600 brakes - the caliper bracket, rotors and pads. NOTHING else. So on a 1600 at your next brake service, buy 1800 parts and a pair of caliper brackets.
Difference between 1800/1600 diff - $400 and a decent LSD. If you aren't driving the tits off her, you won't even notice
Difference between 1800-1600 engine - Like 6 horse power and less shit to go wrong on an NA, PLUS they are easy as hell to find.
The downside with the NA is if you buy a short nose crank version. These don't drop like flys like people suggest. They do have a higher chance to fail due to incorrect maintenance but if you have a non wobbly crank, pull it, locktite it and torque it correctly and i doubt you'll have issues
Difference between 1800/1600 brakes - the caliper bracket, rotors and pads. NOTHING else. So on a 1600 at your next brake service, buy 1800 parts and a pair of caliper brackets.
Difference between 1800/1600 diff - $400 and a decent LSD. If you aren't driving the tits off her, you won't even notice
Difference between 1800-1600 engine - Like 6 horse power and less shit to go wrong on an NA, PLUS they are easy as hell to find.
The downside with the NA is if you buy a short nose crank version. These don't drop like flys like people suggest. They do have a higher chance to fail due to incorrect maintenance but if you have a non wobbly crank, pull it, locktite it and torque it correctly and i doubt you'll have issues
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Hit the nail on the head exactly.Snapfrozen wrote:Difference between 1800/1600 brakes - the caliper bracket, rotors and pads.
Difference between 1800/1600 diff - $400 and a decent LSD. If you aren't driving the tits off her, you won't even notice
Difference between 1800-1600 engine - Like 6 horse power and less shit to go wrong on an NA, PLUS they are easy as hell to find.
Best mod I have done to my 1600 was the brake upgrade, man they are feckin awesome!!
I don't really notice the diff and I'm a 'spirited' driver...
At Hamptons on Wednesday against a stock 1800 and he had a little more pull down the straight but if I had done a better job out of the sweeper I don't think it would have made any difference...
Had this happen to mine & it was probably down to lazy maintenance but no car will ever be without some issue some time -it's all luck really unless you take the whole car apart once a year!Snapfrozen wrote:The downside with the NA is if you buy a short nose crank version. These don't drop like flys like people suggest. They do have a higher chance to fail due to incorrect maintenance but if you have a non wobbly crank, pull it, locktite it and torque it correctly and i doubt you'll have issues
I'm not crazy, my mother had me tested.
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