glass window

Bailey · Post by **Bailey** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 9:11 am

Hi,
Raeding thru the roof replacement and window postings - Is it not normal to
have a glass window that unzips?

Penny

Lou Girardin · Post by **Lou Girardin** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 6:42 pm

Aftermarket glass windows do unzip. once you've had one you won't go back to
plastic.
Lou

Post by **zorruno** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 12:16 pm

Tracey & Penny <mailto:ollie@> wrote:

Hi, Raeding thru the roof replacement and window postings - Is it not
normal to have a glass window that unzips?

Lou Girardin wrote:

Aftermarket glass windows do unzip. once you've had one you won't go
back to plastic. Lou

There are many earlier glass window tops that forced you to unzip the
glass before putting the top down (Glass doesn't fold very well...and
generally only once).

I believe most glass window tops are now constructed differently to
allow you to fold down without unzipping - even with the standard NA
model frame (the NB frame is different and folds differently. Glass
window is standard on an NB - and you can't unzip*).

Some glass window models for NAs still allow you to unzip, but I don't
think all do.

zorruno

*I don't have an NB so someone might like to confirm here.

ross campbell · Post by **ross campbell** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 12:49 pm

Nb factory issue tops have glass windows that dont unzip and the frame
design allows it to fold flat. If you fit a glass window to a NA frame you
have to unzip the window each time you lower the hood. I had a car once
with this setup which was a pain. Also the early hood needs to sit on top
of the back window when it is down.If you have a solid back window it
doesnt follow the parcel shelf contour so consequently the hood doesnt lay
flat.Ross.

Colin · Post by **Colin** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 1:55 pm

Hi,
I have a German cloth top which looks fantastic when it is up.
It was a direct replacement when my std one was knifed.
It has a zipped glass rear window. I absolutely would never go this
way again. It has almost driven me to intentional vandalism to justify
replacing it.
Let me explain...
The glass is much heavier than the plastic. This is key. The zip that
is installed is short and comes apart when you unzip the window. No
problem there, except the lightening quick roof drop at the traffic
lights between showers is a thing of the past.
I lower the glass (a towelling sheet each side) and then the roof.
Cover with the top boot and all is ok.
Raising the roof... remove the top boot and raise the lid till it is
sitting on the closed latches. Kneel on the drivers seat and lift the
glass using the two velcro straps to hold the weight while you pull
the two end of the zip together and start them. Wondering for the
umpteenth time if you will damage it. Start zipping while taking the
weight on your forearm and undoing the straps to let the zip past.
When zipped, do the straps up again and lock the front latches.
A process I have learnt to be very patient with and have found with
practice that I am now very speedy and can accomplish it with only
small obscenities escaping.
I don't have it up much.
I was much happier with the original roof and had no problem with the
plastic window. I too used the Macguires plastic cleaner and polish
(it is good stuff) and protected it from vibration scuffs with a piece
of towelling. I think I would probably go for a standard one if I
needed to replace. The cloth does look outstanding when it is up
though. Not that it is seen much. Oh and it has a 15 year uv warranty.
Another long story...sorry about that
Yours with some Sunday MX5 sunburn
Colin

Voodoo · Post by **Voodoo** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 3:30 pm

I have an aftermarket top with a glass rear window on my NA. I have to unzip
the window before putting the roof down. Its a bit more work than a plastic
one is because of the weight. The folded top stacks perfectly OK when its
down.

On Mon, 01 Nov 2004 12:49:17 +1300, ross campbell wrote:

Nb factory issue tops have glass windows that dont unzip and the frame
design allows it to fold flat. If you fit a glass window to a NA frame you
have to unzip the window each time you lower the hood. I had a car once
with this setup which was a pain. Also the early hood needs to sit on top
of the back window when it is down.If you have a solid back window it
doesnt follow the parcel shelf contour so consequently the hood doesnt lay
flat.Ross.

Voodoo · Post by **Voodoo** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 3:33 pm

Actually one of the velcro fastener strips on mine detached, so I have to be
extra careful with the window on one side. LeMans wanted to take the roof off
to fix this as they said they couldn't stitch it back in place while the roof
was on the car. Small failure potential big cost to repair. I've lived with it
for the moment.

On Mon, 1 Nov 2004 13:55:26 +1300, colin wrote:

Hi,
I have a German cloth top which looks fantastic when it is up.
It was a direct replacement when my std one was knifed.
It has a zipped glass rear window. I absolutely would never go this
way again. It has almost driven me to intentional vandalism to justify
replacing it.
Let me explain...
The glass is much heavier than the plastic. This is key. The zip that
is installed is short and comes apart when you unzip the window. No
problem there, except the lightening quick roof drop at the traffic
lights between showers is a thing of the past.
I lower the glass (a towelling sheet each side) and then the roof.
Cover with the top boot and all is ok.
Raising the roof... remove the top boot and raise the lid till it is
sitting on the closed latches. Kneel on the drivers seat and lift the
glass using the two velcro straps to hold the weight while you pull
the two end of the zip together and start them. Wondering for the
umpteenth time if you will damage it. Start zipping while taking the
weight on your forearm and undoing the straps to let the zip past.
When zipped, do the straps up again and lock the front latches.
A process I have learnt to be very patient with and have found with
practice that I am now very speedy and can accomplish it with only
small obscenities escaping.
I don't have it up much.
I was much happier with the original roof and had no problem with the
plastic window. I too used the Macguires plastic cleaner and polish
(it is good stuff) and protected it from vibration scuffs with a piece
of towelling. I think I would probably go for a standard one if I
needed to replace. The cloth does look outstanding when it is up
though. Not that it is seen much. Oh and it has a 15 year uv warranty.
Another long story...sorry about that
Yours with some Sunday MX5 sunburn
Colin

DBM58 · Post by **DBM58** » Tue Nov 02, 2004 4:51 pm

I have found that by attaching a key ring, with a diameter around (no pun
intended) 30mm, the effort of zipping and unzipping the window is hugely
reduced. I also bought a soft and furry lined "window wallet" from Al when he
replaced the roof (by the way, it is possible to drop the car off on a
Saturday morning, take a leisurely walk to Wairau Road, have breakfast at
Denny's, browse the shops, then return to find that Al has finished the job
and is having coffee himself). The window drops down to be stored snuggly in
place within the folds of the wallet.

Regards

David Moughtin

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue Nov 02, 2004 5:13 pm

Did they pay you to eat the crap at Denny's??? But I must admit, David gave me
a key ring for my rear window and yes it's a bonus.

Gazza

Michael & Kate Cooper · Post by **Michael & Kate Cooper** » Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:25 pm

We found that it has to be a decent keyring or it will stretch out of shape
pretty quickly. The ones with a pattern of indentations on the outside seem
to be pretty good - could probably get one at a $2 shop.

Kate & Michael

Simon Lord · Post by **Simon Lord** » Wed Nov 03, 2004 8:35 am

When I bought my car, it came with a little loop of leather around the zip
which effectively extended it by about 2" and made it much easier to reach and
pull in either direction. I've found this very good - the leather eventually
snapped, but I was able to get a replacement bit (trying hard here to avoid
calling it a 'thong') in a craft shop. It is unobtrusive, same colour as the
hood, and doesn't rattle in the way a solid key-ring could.

I also use a 'floatie' to protect the back window when the hood is down, not
because I am too lazy to undip but because I have a NB wind-blocker on my NZ
and it doesn't allow the window to flatten out without a lot of effort. Does
stop the hood from going quite as flat, though, so I am wondering whether to
try cutting it in half.

Had a great few days last week following the Targa and returning from Hastings
to Auckland via Gisborne - now there's an enjoyable drive...

Simon
97 SR Ltd

Colin Francis · Post by **Colin Francis** » Wed Nov 03, 2004 8:48 am

On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 08:35:10 +1300, you wrote:

When I bought my car, it came with a little loop of leather around the zip which effectively extended it by about 2" and made it much easier to reach and pull in either direction. I've found this very good - the leather eventually snapped, but I was able to get a replacement bit (trying hard here to avoid calling it a 'thong') in a craft shop. It is unobtrusive, same colour as the hood, and doesn't rattle in the way a solid key-ring could.

I also use a 'floatie' to protect the back window when the hood is down, not because I am too lazy to undip but because I have a NB wind-blocker on my NZ and it doesn't allow the window to flatten out without a lot of effort. Does stop the hood from going quite as flat, though, so I am wondering whether to try cutting it in half.

I used a floatee for a while then I found an alternative small (35 mm)
insulation tube which allows the hood to go a lot flatter. Para Rubber have it
in 2 meter lengths but they will cut it to size.

Had a great few days last week following the Targa and returning from Hastings to Auckland via Gisborne - now there's an enjoyable drive...

Simon
97 SR Ltd

Colin Francis

Greg · Post by **Greg** » Wed Nov 03, 2004 9:06 pm

I've used a vacuum cleaner tube - glued a rectangle of double-sided
polarfleece to it - instant protection for the window & the underside of the
hood. Also of a small enough diameter so that the hood folds flat enough so
a hard-top will fit over. I found the 70mm floatee too big.

Regards,
Greg

1990 V Special

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