Window: What goes up does not come down

[Bill Rehm]

The driver's side window on my 91 MX5 suddenly has stopped going down
all the way automatically when you hit the switch. It still goes down as
long as you hold the switch. It also still goes up all the way
automatically.

Anyone experience a similar problem and is there an easy way to fix it?


Regards
Bill

[Janet & Jeff Curtin]

Thats interesting Bill mine has never had the "fastglass" feature, but
requires holding the button down for full open or closing on both windows.
jeff.

[Grant]

Mine didn't work until I pulled the switch apart and cleaned the contacts.
After the cleaning, the window will go up automatically but not down. I can
feel the extra position of the switch required to go to the auto position. I
was wondering if it could be that the window mechanism needs cleaning and
lubrication to reduce the load on the motor. If the load is reduced, the
current drawn by the motor will reduce and hopefully the switch then work in
the auto position. I am assuming the swicth switches the motor off by
sensing the current drawn. When the motor stalls, the current rises and the
switch goes off. Could be wrong about this so hopefully a knowledgeable auto
electrician can put us right on this.

Grant.

[patrick malone]

--- The Simpsons <grant@simtronics.co.nz> wrote:

Mine didn't work until I pulled the switch apart and
cleaned the contacts.
After the cleaning, the window will go up
automatically but not down. I can
feel the extra position of the switch required to go
to the auto position. I

l whould say its the switch itself mine the windows
whould go down but not up.

my freind fixed the switch ,l dont know how
but can be done.

l went to the mazda agent and was told it was 350.00
to get a replacement switch. wich is amazing as the
qay works is so primitive. in mine the contacts where
worn down. and was also tol the chouldint be fixed ,
but so far mine is fine, so give it a go

=====

[poison]

If it's the switch it will be silent and nothing will happen, if it's the
mechanism you will hear the motor hum as it make a noise when it can't drive
against the mechanical resistance.

I have a magazine from Japan and there's a comprehensive article on cleaning
the mechanism, can't read much of it but they basically got an extra 40%
faster. I used to have a VB Commodore and the windows would stick badly and
finally stuck down in a car park in the rain before a concert at the Super
Top, Murphy's law. Had to rip the door panel off and helped it up. So the next
day gave it a well deserved clean, and wow what a difference. It's on my list
for my Mazda when time permits as mine are slow and noisy as the motor
struggles.

Gazza
"PO1SON"

[SLYDIT]

Most automatic window winders use current sensing on
the motor to stop the motor at the top or bottom.
Id say that you need to pull your door panel off and
lube your window runners and cables because the
current sensor thinks its at the bottom due to
increased load current.

[Grant]

Sounds reasonable to me. Next question...
What should I use to lubricate the runners and cables?
I assume these days the current sensing is electronic, but is it or do they
use bi-metallic sensors in the switches themselves (or something similar)?
Last question...
How can I get at the clamps holding the glass at the bottom? Mine sometimes
rattles (drivers side) when the window is up but the roof down, as it should
be. No problem with the roof up as it has the seals to support it. I would
like to tighten the nuts that appear to be nylock types. I haven't managed
to get my fat arthritic fingers in there with suitable tools to hopefully
tighten them enough to stop the rattle but not break the glass.

Grant.

[Greg]

Hi,

White lithium grease is the specified lubricant (can't recall where I've
read it - sorry). There is a quickndirty way from miata.net which I've
tried to some effect - take the door trim off & squirt some silicone down
the runners. Only does the runner, not the cables, but means that the
plastic shield stays in place.

Helped on mine a bit, but not a breakthrough in speed. Will have to do it
properly some day ...

Regards,
Greg

[Michael & Kate Cooper]

I was looking at Miata.net a couple of weeks back and the word seemed to be
to use lithium grease, but try not to get it on the glass as it's tricky to
remove. Silicone was not recommended, as it is a conductor and can short
out the electrics, or something like that. I suppose if you were careful
not to get it on anything electric then that would be okay for starters In
my humble opinion, if you were going to go to the trouble of taking the door
panel and plastic sheeting off, you may as well do a decent job that's going
to last a while.

Kate

[SLYDIT]

I used white lithium spray for the runner channels and
Molysulphide grease in tube form for the mechanical
bits and the cables. The grease is very very easy to
get off the glass using a clean rag and meths.
BY THE WAY ...NEVER EVER use sand paper to "clean"
the contacts of your window switches as it removes the
hard protective coating from the contacts and youll be
back in there cleaning them all the time.
Use contact cleaner on a rag, or a "Fiberglass pen" to
clean them. Be careful not to get the contact cleaner
on the front side of the switch as it bleaches the
black plastic. Dont ever use "ELECTROCLEAN" on plastic
as it melts it!!!

[Matt & Sarah Avery]

I agree with Glenn. I've tried quite a few lubricants on my windows and
the best by far was the Lithium Grease. It makes slow clogged window
almost as good as new. I did my sisters 323 a few weeks ago. Before I
started it would only go down slowly and wouldn't rise at all. After
half an hour of dismantling the door, applying grease, and reassembling,
the window was much better.