Roll Bar/Style Bar

[poison]

Wow Glenn that's great thanks, you have put the bar in exactly the place I
want, too many bars go straight between the posts and prevent the seat
reclining enough. I really like your white dials too, do you still have the
art work on disk?? They look so much better than the ones I've seen for sale.

I was also looking at http://www.frenzybars.com/stylebarsx.htm as they mount
entirely on the seat belt pole (but not sure how) as I'm not too keen to chop
the plastic as I've got an older MX5 (with far too many rattles) and may
upgrade later should the MX5 bug take me... But these have a box section cross
member and don't look right but I'm sure if I can work out the mounting I can
do it with round.

Two questions if I may, I assume when you said TIG you meant fixing the hoops
to the straight sections or did the hoops come with the straight bits on them?
Secondly you said it took some work to remove the bulge from the transition of
the bends, how did you manage this??? I thought I would just have to live with
it, but they look great in your pictures.

Cheers

Gary

[Vince]

The frenzybars appear to have a flat plate section for the bottom crossmember,
profile cut with an S bend at each end to keep it clear of the seat backs. The
seat belt bolt is removed and presumably one of the spacers is removed from
each side and the bar fitted in its place. I think they fit just above the
plastic trim so no cutting is required. Glenn's idea is a better and much
stronger bet. I'm having a set made up at present very similar to his. Cheers,
Vince.

[Vince]

The frenzybars appear to have a flat plate section for the bottom crossmember,
profile cut with an S bend at each end to keep it clear of the seat backs. The
seat belt bolt is removed and presumably one of the spacers is removed from
each side and the bar fitted in its place. I think they fit just above the
plastic trim so no cutting is required. Glenn's idea is a better and much
stronger bet. I'm having a set made up at present very similar to his. Cheers,
Vince.

[SLYDIT]

Hi Gazza.

You could make the plates up so that they mount to the
belt bolts then fold down over the plastic if you
really wanted to preserve your pastic bits.(you could
buy some spare trim panels off Ross if you really
wanted to make sure you had an "unhacked" set.)
The hoops came exactly as they are in the pics. the
straight legs were the perfect length i needed(LUCKY),
i just ground the intersection curve into the ends.
You could just ask them to make sure they have at
least 320mm from the top of the hoop to the leg ends
so you know theyll be long enough. I removed the bulge
by simply heating it red hot with the Oxy set and
shaping it with a hammer (Make sure you dont go too
far and make a dent.)Of course you still need to get
the best possible hoops so all this work is minimised.
I got them TIG welded at the intersection joins as
i wanted the welds to be seen "bare" with no grinding,
He made a great job. make sure you drill the 12-20mm
holes at the crossbar/hoop/sideplate intersections so
the chrome plating fluid can flow inside the pipes for
a longer lasting product.
Basic construction sequence is... make up
sideplates to fit car...make cross bar and lightly
tack into place on sideplates...grind and check
fitment of hoops on car...drill fluid holes...weld everything up.
As for the dials.. you should just be able to right
click the pic and then left click "save picture as" to
download the dials pic.if not i'll send you them as an
atachment. Make sure you say thanks to Nigel E for
adding the roadster and mazda bits!
Happy welding! And dont forget to make up a
windblocker too!

[SLYDIT]

Hi Gazza.

You could make the plates up so that they mount to the
belt bolts then fold down over the plastic if you
really wanted to preserve your pastic bits.(you could
buy some spare trim panels off Ross if you really
wanted to make sure you had an "unhacked" set.)
The hoops came exactly as they are in the pics. the
straight legs were the perfect length i needed(LUCKY),
i just ground the intersection curve into the ends.
You could just ask them to make sure they have at
least 320mm from the top of the hoop to the leg ends
so you know theyll be long enough. I removed the bulge
by simply heating it red hot with the Oxy set and
shaping it with a hammer (Make sure you dont go too
far and make a dent.)Of course you still need to get
the best possible hoops so all this work is minimised.
I got them TIG welded at the intersection joins as
i wanted the welds to be seen "bare" with no grinding,
He made a great job. make sure you drill the 12-20mm
holes at the crossbar/hoop/sideplate intersections so
the chrome plating fluid can flow inside the pipes for
a longer lasting product.
Basic construction sequence is... make up
sideplates to fit car...make cross bar and lightly
tack into place on sideplates...grind and check
fitment of hoops on car...drill fluid holes...weld everything up.
As for the dials.. you should just be able to right
click the pic and then left click "save picture as" to
download the dials pic.if not i'll send you them as an
atachment. Make sure you say thanks to Nigel E for
adding the roadster and mazda bits!
Happy welding! And dont forget to make up a
windblocker too!