Hi all,
My car was broken into on Friday while I was at work on Friday arnd 2pm. They tried to take off with the car but the immobilizer stopped that. regardless, both locks are now screwed.
Is it worth me going fully keyless entry? its looking around $130 per lock plus installation
I'm also going to need the ignition chamber replaced, the barrel was ripped right out, if anybody can recommend somewhere for that itd be much appreciated.
I'm also looking into getting a Pager for it, just not too sure what the cost of it would be, nor quite how they work. I had it recommended to me though.
Any help would be much appreciated
Kind regards
Joe
Keyless entry - replacement locks, ignition & a Pager
Moderators: Growler, jif, SLYDIT, brownie
Keyless entry - replacement locks, ignition & a Pager
XPECTD
Black 1992 V-Special Edition
Driving - No longer about JUST getting from A -> B
Black 1992 V-Special Edition
Driving - No longer about JUST getting from A -> B
-
DBM58
- Keep calm, Forum Moderator here.
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 12:59 pm
- Location: Auckland
Hi Joe
I currently have a problem with my driver's door (1991 NA) in that something in the mechanism where the lock catches on the door pillar slightly behind the seat does not work. The reult is that neither the inside or outside handles work. They just pull out and the door stays closed. My solution has been to gently prise up the sealing rubber that runs along the top of the door and with no fuss at all, use a stiff bent wire to open the door. If this is so easy for a novice then would keyless enty provide any safeguard?
With regard to the pager, would that change anything, in that the car would still have been broken into, and, especially if you were some distance from it, you may not be able to deal out violent retribution to the thief.
Or, maybe in my lack of understanding I have missed the point somewhere.
I currently have a problem with my driver's door (1991 NA) in that something in the mechanism where the lock catches on the door pillar slightly behind the seat does not work. The reult is that neither the inside or outside handles work. They just pull out and the door stays closed. My solution has been to gently prise up the sealing rubber that runs along the top of the door and with no fuss at all, use a stiff bent wire to open the door. If this is so easy for a novice then would keyless enty provide any safeguard?
With regard to the pager, would that change anything, in that the car would still have been broken into, and, especially if you were some distance from it, you may not be able to deal out violent retribution to the thief.
Or, maybe in my lack of understanding I have missed the point somewhere.
David
Keyless entry - replacement locks, ignition & a Pager
I find keyless entry to be a really handy thing, especially if it's
raining
If I were fitting keyless entry, I would also fit a remote boot release.
I try never to leave anything that looks even faintly steal-worthy in
view in the car, so I am always putting things in the boot - remote boot
release makes this convenient.
Fitting the mechanical bits is pretty easy - there are instructions on
http://www.miata.net in the garage section. I do find that the door
locks on my car need occasional lubing (maybe every 2 yrs) otherwise
they stiffen up enough that the actuators are not strong enough to move
them. Buy a can of your favourite CRC-equivalent (I favour Inox) and
give them a squirt every now and then, along with door hinges, boot
hinges, and anything else unlubed which might start to squeak.
I'd suggest fitting the actuators yourself and paying someone else to
wire it all up. The wiring is not difficult - I just hate working on
car electrics.
I made a flat plate bracket for my boot release solenoid - very easy.
Only problem with my boot release has been that the flexible cable from
the solenoid to the lock fatigued and broke - I replaced it with some
cable ties. They failed too, after a couple of years, but it's just not
worth the time to engineer a better solution when I can fix it in 5
minutes with no tools, every few years.
Jaycar have a 2-door central locking kit for $30.95
http://www.jaycar.co.nz part number LR8810
and a boot release solenoid for $39.95, part number LR8834
You also need something to drive those things, of course (like a
car-alarm auxilary output).
I suspect that a pager alarm is going to be expensive and difficult to
justify. Depends on whether you are usually near your vehicle when it
is parked in risky places - if you can't get to the car pretty quick
when the alarm goes off, then there is probably little value. However,
I don't know how much such an alarm would cost or how dodgy the places
are where you park, so I'm mostly guessing...
Remaining piece of wisdom: don't bother fitting a master actuator that
lets you use a key in the drivers door to lock/unlock all the doors
(like you get with an OEM installation). Fitting such a thing as an
aftermarket device is too much trouble to get working reliably because
of the almost inevitable slop in the linkages between the doorlock and
the actuator. Too much slop and the switches in the actuator will start
to believe that the master lock has been locked/unlocked every time you
go over bump in the road, then it'll drive the other actuator to
correspondingly lock/unlock the other door. Clunk! clunk... clunk
clunk..., as you drive down the road.
Anyway, I don't think there's any value in having a master actuator
setup if you have keyless entry - you're virtually never going to use
a key in the lock. There will surely be people who have successfully
fitted aftermarket master actuators, but that doesn't prove it's a good
idea.
Karl.
[Posted via External Email]
raining
If I were fitting keyless entry, I would also fit a remote boot release.
I try never to leave anything that looks even faintly steal-worthy in
view in the car, so I am always putting things in the boot - remote boot
release makes this convenient.
Fitting the mechanical bits is pretty easy - there are instructions on
http://www.miata.net in the garage section. I do find that the door
locks on my car need occasional lubing (maybe every 2 yrs) otherwise
they stiffen up enough that the actuators are not strong enough to move
them. Buy a can of your favourite CRC-equivalent (I favour Inox) and
give them a squirt every now and then, along with door hinges, boot
hinges, and anything else unlubed which might start to squeak.
I'd suggest fitting the actuators yourself and paying someone else to
wire it all up. The wiring is not difficult - I just hate working on
car electrics.
I made a flat plate bracket for my boot release solenoid - very easy.
Only problem with my boot release has been that the flexible cable from
the solenoid to the lock fatigued and broke - I replaced it with some
cable ties. They failed too, after a couple of years, but it's just not
worth the time to engineer a better solution when I can fix it in 5
minutes with no tools, every few years.
Jaycar have a 2-door central locking kit for $30.95
http://www.jaycar.co.nz part number LR8810
and a boot release solenoid for $39.95, part number LR8834
You also need something to drive those things, of course (like a
car-alarm auxilary output).
I suspect that a pager alarm is going to be expensive and difficult to
justify. Depends on whether you are usually near your vehicle when it
is parked in risky places - if you can't get to the car pretty quick
when the alarm goes off, then there is probably little value. However,
I don't know how much such an alarm would cost or how dodgy the places
are where you park, so I'm mostly guessing...
Remaining piece of wisdom: don't bother fitting a master actuator that
lets you use a key in the drivers door to lock/unlock all the doors
(like you get with an OEM installation). Fitting such a thing as an
aftermarket device is too much trouble to get working reliably because
of the almost inevitable slop in the linkages between the doorlock and
the actuator. Too much slop and the switches in the actuator will start
to believe that the master lock has been locked/unlocked every time you
go over bump in the road, then it'll drive the other actuator to
correspondingly lock/unlock the other door. Clunk! clunk... clunk
clunk..., as you drive down the road.
Anyway, I don't think there's any value in having a master actuator
setup if you have keyless entry - you're virtually never going to use
a key in the lock. There will surely be people who have successfully
fitted aftermarket master actuators, but that doesn't prove it's a good
idea.
Karl.
[Posted via External Email]
-
zorruno
- Black is the new black.
- Posts: 601
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2006 11:20 pm
- Location: An Eastern Beach
Keyless entry - replacement locks, ignition & a Pager
on 18/07/2006 11:02 a.m. XPECTD wrote:
If by fully keyless you mean disconnect the locks, then I'd say probably
not as you may need the key entry one day... specifically if the battery
dies. Also, a towtruck driver may do a bit of damage getting into your
car one day if you take the mechanisms out...
Although on an MX5 you can pretty much always get inside the car through
the back window anyway (NA, with zipped window), and there are things
you can do such as run extra wires (hidden somewhere on the outside of
the vehicle) to the solenoid, so that you can unlock the door with
another battery in an emergency.
If by keyless you mean having a remote to unlock, but don't disconnect
the locks, then I would recommend this to everyone. Solenoids are
relatively easy to fit, and if your alarm has the right outputs, it is
quite a cheap exercise. $260 uninstalled sounds very expensive though -
even from an alarm company though with their margins. Jaycar have cheap
slave solenoids that will last for a few years.
As simple suggests - a master central lock motor is a waste of time. I
have installed them in other cars, but they are not worth the time for
the slight extra functionality.
and the barrel to a locksmiths (not sure where you are in Akl, but an
example is Armstrongs in Greenlane... they have moved to temp offices in
GSR I think) and they will set the the barrel up to match your key.
Then fit the whole new barrel assembly to the steering column.
If insurance is paying, I'd just take it to a panelbeaters and get them
to sort it.
they rip everything out of it? Probably depends on where you park.
Also, don't believe the range they tell you for the unit - their claims
are worse than wireless network equipment manufacturers...
I personally don't think having a bulky pager on a keyring is worth the
effort & cost. I put one into my last car, and it only went off once -
when I was in the movies (yes... it was on vibrate). I rushed off to
the car to find it was a false alarm
Self installable pager systems can be bought from Jaycar. Don't know
what they are like though.
One thing that I have tried to do, but am as yet unsuccessful with is
putting a deadlock system in. The commercial deadlock solenoids I have
don't work as there is too much stretch in the door lock wires. Hard to
explain, but if you pull the handles hard enough you can stretch the
wires, move the solenoids and unlock the door anyway. If anyone has
tried something like this and been successful, I'd like to know about
it. Deadlocks on cars are a good idea IMHO.
As for the boot, there are a few things you can do to keep stuff in your
boot safe. In an MX5, it is very difficult to break into if they don't
have easy access to open it. So, the first is to disconnect the boot
release if you have one. Do not disconnect it at the boot though - do
it at the lever in the centre console. That way you can reconnect it in
an emergency.
I would then second simple's suggestion of a boot solenoid. If your
alarm hasn't got an output for it though, you can still have a push
button switch somewhere to open you boot from inside. Hide it, or even
connect it so power comes from the acc line so that you can't open it
without a key in the ignition. If you never have had a boot release
lever, this can be a lifesaver if you ever leave your keys in the boot...
cheers
--
(z)
[Posted via External Email]
Hi JoeIs it worth me going fully keyless entry? its looking around $130 per
lock plus installation
If by fully keyless you mean disconnect the locks, then I'd say probably
not as you may need the key entry one day... specifically if the battery
dies. Also, a towtruck driver may do a bit of damage getting into your
car one day if you take the mechanisms out...
Although on an MX5 you can pretty much always get inside the car through
the back window anyway (NA, with zipped window), and there are things
you can do such as run extra wires (hidden somewhere on the outside of
the vehicle) to the solenoid, so that you can unlock the door with
another battery in an emergency.
If by keyless you mean having a remote to unlock, but don't disconnect
the locks, then I would recommend this to everyone. Solenoids are
relatively easy to fit, and if your alarm has the right outputs, it is
quite a cheap exercise. $260 uninstalled sounds very expensive though -
even from an alarm company though with their margins. Jaycar have cheap
slave solenoids that will last for a few years.
As simple suggests - a master central lock motor is a waste of time. I
have installed them in other cars, but they are not worth the time for
the slight extra functionality.
You can get another barrel and surrounds from a wreckers. Take your keyI'm also going to need the ignition chamber replaced, the barrel was
ripped right out, if anybody can recommend somewhere for that itd be
much appreciated.
and the barrel to a locksmiths (not sure where you are in Akl, but an
example is Armstrongs in Greenlane... they have moved to temp offices in
GSR I think) and they will set the the barrel up to match your key.
Then fit the whole new barrel assembly to the steering column.
If insurance is paying, I'd just take it to a panelbeaters and get them
to sort it.
Pagers are fun, but would you really be able to get to your car beforeI'm also looking into getting a Pager for it, just not too sure what the
cost of it would be, nor quite how they work. I had it recommended to me
though.
they rip everything out of it? Probably depends on where you park.
Also, don't believe the range they tell you for the unit - their claims
are worse than wireless network equipment manufacturers...
I personally don't think having a bulky pager on a keyring is worth the
effort & cost. I put one into my last car, and it only went off once -
when I was in the movies (yes... it was on vibrate). I rushed off to
the car to find it was a false alarm
Self installable pager systems can be bought from Jaycar. Don't know
what they are like though.
One thing that I have tried to do, but am as yet unsuccessful with is
putting a deadlock system in. The commercial deadlock solenoids I have
don't work as there is too much stretch in the door lock wires. Hard to
explain, but if you pull the handles hard enough you can stretch the
wires, move the solenoids and unlock the door anyway. If anyone has
tried something like this and been successful, I'd like to know about
it. Deadlocks on cars are a good idea IMHO.
As for the boot, there are a few things you can do to keep stuff in your
boot safe. In an MX5, it is very difficult to break into if they don't
have easy access to open it. So, the first is to disconnect the boot
release if you have one. Do not disconnect it at the boot though - do
it at the lever in the centre console. That way you can reconnect it in
an emergency.
I would then second simple's suggestion of a boot solenoid. If your
alarm hasn't got an output for it though, you can still have a push
button switch somewhere to open you boot from inside. Hide it, or even
connect it so power comes from the acc line so that you can't open it
without a key in the ignition. If you never have had a boot release
lever, this can be a lifesaver if you ever leave your keys in the boot...
cheers
--
(z)
[Posted via External Email]
(z)
Okay, so pager does sound like a bit of a waste of money for me at the moment then.
Apologies the post was so short, I wanted to get the thread up and thought about it while waiting for lunch so made it from my Cellpone, not the easiest to type from.
Replacement doorhandles? Ideally just the drivers side... where's the best place to go for them? Rang one or two places, they said around about $140 for a 2nd-hand one??
Right now Im looking at the handle thinking the way to go would be to weld some small sheet of metal (but not too thin) overtop of the current keyholes, and have the panelbeater bog up the boot and then sand it / paint it at the same time he fixes up where the doors have been dented in.
Big Red Button setup will be done by a friend who's an electrician. Will also look at wiring up the internal light on the drivers side as an additional cut to the fuel line.. so theres that switch which can be flicked each time Im getting out of the car for a while (like at work or overnight) and not worry about it, and also there's the immobilizers (which stopped the thieves this time round).
Whilst I realise that anybody could smash a window (Ive got the hard top on for the winter), it would be cheaper to fix a window than to have to replace the locks again as well as the ignition chamber and have all the panelbeating done to the doors if it _did_ happen again (Send up a prayer for me that it wont).
I'm also going to look to move the battery to a non-standard location so any thief who thinks he's gonna be clever and drill a hole in the right place to have the battery fluid run out will be foiled!
Im just thankful they didnt make off with the car as a whole, it was obvious that was what they were trying for! Im also lucky the facia and everything wasnt damaged at all, could have been a WHOLE LOT WORSE!
Apologies the post was so short, I wanted to get the thread up and thought about it while waiting for lunch so made it from my Cellpone, not the easiest to type from.
Replacement doorhandles? Ideally just the drivers side... where's the best place to go for them? Rang one or two places, they said around about $140 for a 2nd-hand one??
Right now Im looking at the handle thinking the way to go would be to weld some small sheet of metal (but not too thin) overtop of the current keyholes, and have the panelbeater bog up the boot and then sand it / paint it at the same time he fixes up where the doors have been dented in.
Big Red Button setup will be done by a friend who's an electrician. Will also look at wiring up the internal light on the drivers side as an additional cut to the fuel line.. so theres that switch which can be flicked each time Im getting out of the car for a while (like at work or overnight) and not worry about it, and also there's the immobilizers (which stopped the thieves this time round).
Whilst I realise that anybody could smash a window (Ive got the hard top on for the winter), it would be cheaper to fix a window than to have to replace the locks again as well as the ignition chamber and have all the panelbeating done to the doors if it _did_ happen again (Send up a prayer for me that it wont).
I'm also going to look to move the battery to a non-standard location so any thief who thinks he's gonna be clever and drill a hole in the right place to have the battery fluid run out will be foiled!
Im just thankful they didnt make off with the car as a whole, it was obvious that was what they were trying for! Im also lucky the facia and everything wasnt damaged at all, could have been a WHOLE LOT WORSE!
XPECTD
Black 1992 V-Special Edition
Driving - No longer about JUST getting from A -> B
Black 1992 V-Special Edition
Driving - No longer about JUST getting from A -> B
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