Discussions relating to Turbochargers, Superchargers, Induction, Engine Mods, Exhaust Mods, and other items specifically to make your MX5 or Roadster put out more power.
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MrGrey
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by MrGrey » Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:10 am
So I plan on changing from an auto to a manual so I figured I would start getting all the components needed. I have been using this as a guide:
http://www.miata.net/garage/auto_2_5_speed.html
Today I picked this up from a 1.8l mx5.
I was wondering if some of you more knowledgeable chaps could have a gander and suggest what else I might need.
- what sort of gaskets/seals/bearings are needed?
- the guide says my old driveshaft is not the same length but 'close enough'. should I risk it? or should I source a driveshaft from a manual?
- should I get a new flywheel and clutch plate? or just use the 1.8 flywheel and get a new 1.8 clutch plate?
- should I get a new radiator? or trust the one he threw in for free?
- how long would a job like this take? I feel a job like this may be better left to an actual mechanic and therefore would need to try and work out how much the labour would sting me for.
Thank you for any suggestions or input, due to funds this project will take a while so I might as well do it right
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Angreal
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by Angreal » Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:19 am
Get the flywheel skimmed and a new clutch plate (I think it was $30 with my clutch?). No point having to go back in at a later date to save a few pennies now.
Also get a new gearknob (unless it's in the photos and I didn't see it).
That unfortunately is my 10c worth which probably isn't worth much :p
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4A-GE
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by 4A-GE » Wed Jan 08, 2014 10:49 am
I would do the above, new clutch ass'y and flywheel machined etc. Should take you a weekend with an extra set of hands probably. While it's all out, it's the perfect time to chuck in go fast bits you might've been thinking about. Also, change the slave cylinder. Mine just died.
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marcellarius
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by marcellarius » Wed Jan 08, 2014 12:38 pm
And get saving for an LVV cert... or at least talk to a certifier. A while ago someone asked about auto->manual swaps on the LVVTA forum, despite everything being a direct replacement, they considered changing the brake pedal assembly to be a modification that required cert.
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BRM
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by BRM » Wed Jan 08, 2014 12:41 pm
No one has to know...
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marcellarius
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by marcellarius » Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:40 pm
I'd definitely want to overhaul the clutch and clutch bearings while you're there. You might need a clutch alignment tool.
Make sure you have a good socket set on hand, with a breaker bar, extensions and maybe a swivel. A set of good spanners too. I'd have a torque wrench too -- the flywheel, PPF and bellhousing bolts all have pretty high torque specs and unless you have well calibrated arms you might be way off the required torque.
A cordless impact wrench may help with removing some of the fasteners.
Good jack stands and a floor jack (you'll need to lift the car pretty high to get working room, trolley jack is super handy for supporting and moving the transmission).
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MrGrey
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by MrGrey » Wed Jan 08, 2014 1:53 pm
Thats what I am thinking, as long as it is a safe, professional & tidy job then there shouldn't be too much of a problem. I can understand blanket rules because they have to cover all vehicles but I am replacing OEM parts with OEM parts and do not want to do anything mechanical halfassed. I will eventually be getting this car certed but that will be well down the track when I put in coilovers, spacers and turbo (I assume a turbo needs a cert). That being said, I may just get rims with appropriate offset rather than run spacers, but that's something for me to consider at a much later date.
I fully realize that I am doing this all the expensive way and could just strip mods, sell the car and buy a manual turbo but (foolishly) I consider this a labor of love project that piece by piece I am making awesome.
Well.....
Awesome in my eyes, I know that the 'ricer' look is not many peoples cup of tea but this is something I have wanted since I was a little kid and my MX5 ownership thus far has taught me so much and I truly have a respectful understanding of the "built not bought" brigade. I consider it a fun learning experience thus far. And just FYI, by rice I mean "race inspired cosmetic enhancements".... after all what kid doesn't want a race car!
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sprsta
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by sprsta » Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:53 pm
marcellarius wrote:And get saving for an LVV cert... or at least talk to a certifier. A while ago someone asked about auto->manual swaps on the LVVTA forum, despite everything being a direct replacement, they considered changing the brake pedal assembly to be a modification that required cert.
the clutch pedal is a separate pedal. you dont need to touch the brakes.
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marcellarius
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by marcellarius » Thu Jan 09, 2014 11:55 am
Most conversion howtos online change the brake pedal assembly out too. The AT pedal is very wide, is there even enough room to safely use the clutch with the AT brake pedal there?
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chris
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by chris » Thu Jan 09, 2014 1:19 pm
Anyone questioned the ECU?
Manual ECU would probably help too
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BRM
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by BRM » Thu Jan 09, 2014 7:19 pm
marcellarius wrote:Most conversion howtos online change the brake pedal assembly out too. The AT pedal is very wide, is there even enough room to safely use the clutch with the AT brake pedal there?
Cut it.
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4A-GE
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by 4A-GE » Thu Jan 09, 2014 7:46 pm
BRM wrote:marcellarius wrote:Most conversion howtos online change the brake pedal assembly out too. The AT pedal is very wide, is there even enough room to safely use the clutch with the AT brake pedal there?
Cut it.
10/10
Then stick the MT rubber thing over it.
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Angreal
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by Angreal » Thu Jan 09, 2014 7:46 pm
BRM wrote:marcellarius wrote:Most conversion howtos online change the brake pedal assembly out too. The AT pedal is very wide, is there even enough room to safely use the clutch with the AT brake pedal there?
Cut it.
Or use a manual pedal if you want your car to look less suspect and like it was always like that
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siren676
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by siren676 » Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:53 pm
chris wrote:Anyone questioned the ECU?
Manual ECU would probably help too
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All you usually need to do is bridge the neutral start switch.
Might as well do the rear crank seal, input shaft seal and spigot bearing while its apart for piece of mind
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