How much power...realistically will I get from M/S +

Discussions relating to Turbochargers, Superchargers, Induction, Engine Mods, Exhaust Mods, and other items specifically to make your MX5 or Roadster put out more power.

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Wickmyster
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How much power...realistically will I get from M/S +

Post by Wickmyster » Fri Mar 08, 2013 10:20 pm

How much power...realistically will I get from airflow meter removed, decent filter, hks extractors and full exhaust? I currenlt have a bog standard 1990 so 115 hp~ (when it was new) not sure what they are atw.

Angreal
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Re: How much power...realistically will I get from M/S +

Post by Angreal » Fri Mar 08, 2013 10:40 pm

Wickmyster wrote:How much power...realistically will I get from airflow meter removed, decent filter, hks extractors and full exhaust? I currenlt have a bog standard 1990 so 115 hp~ (when it was new) not sure what they are atw.
Not much... My butt dyno noticed a gain in power when I replaced my leaking exhaust with a non-leaking exhaust. You should notice something though

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Post by Snapfrozen » Sat Mar 09, 2013 6:18 am

Forget how much power will you gain, but where you will gain it. Being able to tune is a great thing and you can ditch your afm as well!

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Post by sprsta » Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:03 am

maybe 116

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Post by warrior » Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:28 pm

I did this to my car, maybe 10hp max....that was untill I put on the supercharger :P
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Post by warrior » Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:29 pm

and they were around 95 atw
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Post by warrior » Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:31 pm

Have a good think about what you want as you can spend a lot on these cars with very little gains. If you are thinking of maybe one day going turbo or supercharged then I strongly recommend waiting.

I didnt and it cost me money along the way.
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Post by Wickmyster » Sat Mar 09, 2013 3:49 pm

All mods I am doing will be compatable with a Scr as I plan on fitting a sc14 oneday.

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Post by SLYDIT » Sat Mar 09, 2013 4:26 pm

i wouldnt bother going MS if your staying with your stock inlet plenum. if you were adding cams and ITBs then yes.

get your exhaust done and a lightweight flywheel and then do a clocking crystal mod for a bit more HP. the mx5 B6 is a dog of an engine really. it just doest respond to mods like a honda for example.
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Post by Angreal » Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:17 pm

warrior wrote:Have a good think about what you want as you can spend a lot on these cars with very little gains. If you are thinking of maybe one day going turbo or supercharged then I strongly recommend waiting.

I didnt and it cost me money along the way.

So true. I've done so many halfway mods... Would've been better holding back and going all the way rather than increments

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Power increase

Post by Teamjelly » Sat Mar 09, 2013 9:29 pm

Having dynoed over 20 MX5's on Megasquirts I can give you a definitive answer
On a stock engine, with a decent exhaust and pod filter, (stock exhaust manifold is fine up to 230hp)
you will go from a stock 95hp ATW to on average 105 hp ATW
which is about a 12hp flywheel increase.
Not amazing but definitely noticeable, especially over 5500 rpm.
Once you modify the engine, the power increases will be alot more.
You can also alter the rev limit of the engine, to give a broader power band,
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Re: Power increase

Post by Timmo » Mon Jul 08, 2013 2:46 pm

Teamjelly wrote:Having dynoed over 20 MX5's on Megasquirts I can give you a definitive answer
On a stock engine, with a decent exhaust and pod filter, (stock exhaust manifold is fine up to 230hp)
you will go from a stock 95hp ATW to on average 105 hp ATW
which is about a 12hp flywheel increase.
Not amazing but definitely noticeable, especially over 5500 rpm.
Once you modify the engine, the power increases will be alot more.
You can also alter the rev limit of the engine, to give a broader power band,
Any ideas about what sort of gains to be had on an 1800 NB with extractors, standard mid pipe, larger diameter rear section/muffler/exhaust, cold side filter?

Are there fuel savings to be made as well? (i.e. leaner fuelling than standard)
Ex: 1991 BRG NA6, 1998 White RS, 1997 Wine Merlot M Edition

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Post by Kieran » Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:21 pm

I have a similar setup timmo you just need to bump your timing a little to account for the rich factory tune it makes a noticeable difference and you don't need a new ecu to do it 8)

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Post by Timmo » Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:41 pm

I didn't think that was possible with the NB? My memory is a bit hazy but I thought it was something to do with the move to a CAS?
I did do it on my NA and it felt a bit meatier in the mid range

edit- Ahh I see you have an adjustable cam gear- Mind if I ask how much that cost to buy and install etc?
Ex: 1991 BRG NA6, 1998 White RS, 1997 Wine Merlot M Edition

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Post by Kieran » Mon Jul 08, 2013 5:17 pm

You just need a adjustable timing encoder wheel which is behind the crank pulley

Here's the one I got
http://5xracing.com/i-6330020-5x-racing ... ta-v2.html

Definitely worth it for $40

Factory timing is set to 10 degrees
Mines at 14-15

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Post by brownie » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:03 pm

get your exhaust done and a lightweight flywheel and then do a clocking crystal mod for a bit more HP. the mx5 B6 is a dog of an engine really. it just doest respond to mods like a honda for example.[/quote]

pretty much what i have done with mine,can't give you power figures but sure as hell feels faster .
Still maintain the light flywheel is the best thing you can do without going as far as F/I.
Really livens the little beasts up ! FACT !!

Couple of months ago had a wanked up honda Civic Vtec B16A give up chasing me one day,Even he was impressed,as much as i was when he caught up.

And flywheel switch does need the ECU tweaking from Don,You WILL hit the limiter in second NO problems.

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Post by Snapfrozen » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:06 pm

There's something wrong with that civic if a B16A is losing to your MX5.. My civic had intake, header, exhaust and a mild tune and made 141wkw (On the same dyno it made 101 factory).

Agree with the flywheel, will help revs for sure, but here's what I would do. Forget ALL mods here. MS it, learn to tune it, turbo it, profit

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Post by brownie » Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:44 pm

Surprised the hell out of me too,i could hear he was giving it shit,and he was falling behind,but hey only a one off on the day.
You would be amazed how hard the B6 pulls with a light flywheel,from a 9kg factory to a 3.5 kg TODA and no rev limiter.
Wouldn't want to do it every day,motor would eventually give out and cry enough.

I have got a good quality JDM short shift kit as well,No shagging around between gears.

On the turbo side,each to there own

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Post by Timmo » Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:38 pm

Kieran wrote:You just need a adjustable timing encoder wheel which is behind the crank pulley

Here's the one I got
http://5xracing.com/i-6330020-5x-racing ... ta-v2.html

Definitely worth it for $40

Factory timing is set to 10 degrees
Mines at 14-15
Did you install yourself or get the shop to do it? (I don't have a timing light)- Can you remember how long it took to install/labour costs?
Ex: 1991 BRG NA6, 1998 White RS, 1997 Wine Merlot M Edition

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Post by Growler » Wed Jul 10, 2013 1:50 pm

SLYDIT wrote:...and then do a clocking crystal mod for a bit more HP...
Can someone explain what that is?

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Post by Kieran » Wed Jul 10, 2013 3:26 pm

Timmo wrote:
Kieran wrote:You just need a adjustable timing encoder wheel which is behind the crank pulley

Here's the one I got
http://5xracing.com/i-6330020-5x-racing ... ta-v2.html

Definitely worth it for $40

Factory timing is set to 10 degrees
Mines at 14-15
Did you install yourself or get the shop to do it? (I don't have a timing light)- Can you remember how long it took to install/labour costs?
I installed it myself it has detailed instructions and if I can do it anyone can
It took me an hour and I only ran into one problem that the car wouldn't start afterwards but soon fixed this as I had knocked the sensor slightly out of place and I didn't use a timing light I just eyeballed it

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Post by BRM » Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:41 pm

Growler wrote:
SLYDIT wrote:...and then do a clocking crystal mod for a bit more HP...
Can someone explain what that is?
Totally agree.

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Post by SLYDIT » Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:53 pm

On the ecu there's a silver chip right in the corner marked 4.00 all you do is replace it with a 4.4 chip. (actually I think you can only get a 4.39)Basically this chip is the clock which everything is referenced to so replacing it with a ten percent higher one you raise your rev limit 10% and lean your mixture 10% and advance timing by 4 to 6 degrees.

The na 1800's have an 8.0mhz chip so you change it to about 8.8.
You can't chip an Nb as it screws up the obd functions
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Post by brownie » Wed Jul 10, 2013 10:22 pm

Don at Autoways in Hamilton can do it,about a 3-4 day turn around.
Just make sure the rest of the engine us upto it if you are going to rev it that hard.
Won't with ABS cars and later 16bit ECU's i believe

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Post by Growler » Thu Jul 11, 2013 1:34 pm

SLYDIT wrote:On the ecu there's a silver chip right in the corner marked 4.00 all you do is replace it with a 4.4 chip. (actually I think you can only get a 4.39)Basically this chip is the clock which everything is referenced to so replacing it with a ten percent higher one you raise your rev limit 10% and lean your mixture 10% and advance timing by 4 to 6 degrees.

The na 1800's have an 8.0mhz chip so you change it to about 8.8.
You can't chip an Nb as it screws up the obd functions
So...how do you gain more horsepower? I thought peak power was 6700 - 6800rpm so reving it higher just puts more stress on engine componants?
Advancing the timing helps, but you can do that without changing the chip.
Just trying to understand more...

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