A small cleaning tip

[EricW]

For what this is worth to anyone,

Gave the 5 a bit of a birthday yesterday and was sitting contemplating the
steering wheel, as you do, and thinking that it looked faded, scratched and a
bit tatty, from sun, handling, wedding ring scratches and so on.

I was thinking that I needed to replace it at some point, when the thought
occured that it was covered in leather.

Having nothing to lose, two minutes, and a small quantity of black liquid shoe
polish later, it was looking absolutely brand new. I just spread the polish on
using the sponge applicator and then gave it a good buff up with a piece of
towelling.

No, it does not come off on your hands, after it is dry, nor is it slippery,
perfect solution to the problem!

I might just try it, discreetly, on the BMW seats and see how that goes.

Eric

From chris.tankard@aderant.com Fri Apr 27 17:24:37 2007
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Subject: Link installation review
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Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 09:26:53 +1300
Thread-Topic: Link installation review
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From: "Chris Tankard" <chris.tankard@aderant.com>
To: <mx5list@mx5club.org.nz>
Precedence: list
Message-ID: <VagJoC.A.8EE.FxYMGB@L733>

A couple of people have asked me to let them know how I got on with the
installation - so here is a quick rundown - happy to answer any
questions..


I installed the FM MiataLink over the weekend. All up only took a few
hours, although I probably could have done it faster if I didn't keep
double and triple checking everything before doing it.


I started by removing the restrictive MAF sensor and adding a cone
filter to the end of the OEM pipe that goes across the front of the
engine. To join them you need a bit of pipe 70mm in external diameter.
I also made a small bracket that supports the weight.


It is important to keep the OEM cross pipe as there is a box in it -
moving to the aftermarket solutions (that do look good I admit) puts a
hole in the torque curve. Look on Miata.net for all the (very)
technical info.


As I was fitting this N/A at the moment I simply put the temp sensor on
the cone filter and held it in place with a zip tie. One end of the
cable earths, the other to the cable off the power steering.


MAP installation was easy and simply tapped into the line on the t/b as
documented in the instructions with a small (supplied) t-join.


The ECU was fairly easy to remove and only took about 5 mins. Changing
the pins around was another matter - firstly you have to get the plugs
open - you have to imaging the top as doors that open outwards on the
top (different from most other plugs) - once you get your head around
that you can open them. The pins have a small 'lock' on them so you
have to run a small (strong) pin (or jewelers screwdriver) along the
top, press forward and pull out. Sounds hard - but you soon get the
hang of it.


Once you put it all back together - plug in the hand held programming
unit and turn on the elec. There are a couple of test to be completed
(checking MAP and temp). Follow the instructions to load default
settings (Turbo large inj, Supercharged, N/A OEM inj, N/A large inj).


All good? Crank the car over and then change your timing to 10deg
(Thanks Gazza for the help here), at the same time configure your Link
to 10Deg. This allows the car and the Link to be in Sync.


You in a position to start tuning.


What have I found? - OK improvements low down (nothing dramatic) -
better performance from 5k to the new 7400 redline.


I will work more on the tuning and then add the larger injectors.


All in all happy to have this out of the way so that I can move forward
with the turbo. A easy installation if you read the instructions
(several times).


C