Hi all, what is the original timing supposed to be, as when I bought my 5 it
was apparently advanced and since I had the timing set back to normal it is
not running well under load, do not want to go back to the same mechanic but
have a mate coming round on the weekend with a timing light so any advice
will be good.
Do not think it is anything else as it has been rough since the "mechanic"
touched it ( I assume that the info I have from here in the past regarding
the paperclip in the diagnostics plug may help as when the mechanic adjusted
the timing he knew nothing about this) so will try timing first
Karl and cass
timing
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- Need, more, 5-ing, time....
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- Location: Glendowie, Auckland
timing
hi, guys
10 degrees BTDC is spec as far as I'm aware. The sticker on the underside
of your bonnet on the driver's side may show specifics - mine says 10
degrees BTDC @ 850 rpm. Plus a whole lot of other Japanese - lucky the
numbers are in English
Mine is now running 14 BTDC & seems more responsive, but it certainly wasn't
misbehaving at 10 BTDC either.
You don't have dodgy fuel or fuel supply (applying my very amateur
problem-solving skills ...?)
Regards,
Greg
10 degrees BTDC is spec as far as I'm aware. The sticker on the underside
of your bonnet on the driver's side may show specifics - mine says 10
degrees BTDC @ 850 rpm. Plus a whole lot of other Japanese - lucky the
numbers are in English
Mine is now running 14 BTDC & seems more responsive, but it certainly wasn't
misbehaving at 10 BTDC either.
You don't have dodgy fuel or fuel supply (applying my very amateur
problem-solving skills ...?)
Regards,
Greg
Greg
1990 V Special
1990 V Special
timing
Karl
I don't want to frighten you but one of the symptoms of the crank nose
problem is poor performance when the timing is set to the spec mark. The
reason is that the crank gets out of whack with the cam timing and the cam
is what drives the crank angle sensor. Car gets more and more gutless and
peaky. Get you mechanic to check the tightness (torque) of the crank bolt.
If this is loose then you have a problem. The best repair is to get Taylors
in Auckland to weld up the crank. This can be done in the car and costs
about $800 for the total job - Stumble in - roar away.
_____
From: e-admin@mx5club.org.nz [mailto:e-admin@mx5club.org.nz] On Behalf Of
Karlncas
Sent: Tuesday, 7 February 2006 5:57 p.m.
To: 'MX5List'
Subject: timing
Hi all, what is the original timing supposed to be, as when I bought my 5 it
was apparently advanced and since I had the timing set back to normal it is
not running well under load, do not want to go back to the same mechanic but
have a mate coming round on the weekend with a timing light so any advice
will be good.
Do not think it is anything else as it has been rough since the "mechanic"
touched it ( I assume that the info I have from here in the past regarding
the paperclip in the diagnostics plug may help as when the mechanic adjusted
the timing he knew nothing about this) so will try timing first
Karl and cass
I don't want to frighten you but one of the symptoms of the crank nose
problem is poor performance when the timing is set to the spec mark. The
reason is that the crank gets out of whack with the cam timing and the cam
is what drives the crank angle sensor. Car gets more and more gutless and
peaky. Get you mechanic to check the tightness (torque) of the crank bolt.
If this is loose then you have a problem. The best repair is to get Taylors
in Auckland to weld up the crank. This can be done in the car and costs
about $800 for the total job - Stumble in - roar away.
_____
From: e-admin@mx5club.org.nz [mailto:e-admin@mx5club.org.nz] On Behalf Of
Karlncas
Sent: Tuesday, 7 February 2006 5:57 p.m.
To: 'MX5List'
Subject: timing
Hi all, what is the original timing supposed to be, as when I bought my 5 it
was apparently advanced and since I had the timing set back to normal it is
not running well under load, do not want to go back to the same mechanic but
have a mate coming round on the weekend with a timing light so any advice
will be good.
Do not think it is anything else as it has been rough since the "mechanic"
touched it ( I assume that the info I have from here in the past regarding
the paperclip in the diagnostics plug may help as when the mechanic adjusted
the timing he knew nothing about this) so will try timing first
Karl and cass
1990 NA with a 1.8 conversion SOLD
2005 NC Limited edition 2470/3500 6MT
2005 NC Limited edition 2470/3500 6MT
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- Black is the new black.
- Posts: 601
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2006 11:20 pm
- Location: An Eastern Beach
timing
Karlncas said on 02/07/2006 05:56 PM:
but it is _much_ more likely just need a new set of plug leads. Have
you tried a new set of leads? This is a _very_ common MX5 problem, and
the first time it happend to me it showed the exact same symptoms as you
describe.
cheers
H
what year is it? If 89 -> mid 91 it could be a crank keyway problem...Hi all, what is the original timing supposed to be, as when I bought my
5 it was apparently advanced and since I had the timing set back to
normal it is not running well under load, do not want to go back to the
same mechanic but have a mate coming round on the weekend with a timing
light so any advice will be good.
Karl and cass
but it is _much_ more likely just need a new set of plug leads. Have
you tried a new set of leads? This is a _very_ common MX5 problem, and
the first time it happend to me it showed the exact same symptoms as you
describe.
cheers
H
(z)
-
- Black is the new black.
- Posts: 601
- Joined: Thu Apr 13, 2006 11:20 pm
- Location: An Eastern Beach
timing
Gazza said on 02/07/2006 11:15 PM:
the diagnostic connector if you alter the timing.
H
not before measuring, but you do need to jumper the TEN and GND pins ofIsn't there something you have to disconnect before measuring the
timing??? Or you will end up with wrong setting.
the diagnostic connector if you alter the timing.
H
(z)
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