Reversing Warning

Registrar · Post by **Registrar** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:10 pm

Am getting tired of the beep beep when I reverse. Has anyone out there every
disconnected this warning, if so how do you do it.

Also has anyone got a diagram of how the plastic cog wire goes on an
electric aerial. Mine has snapped and I am unable to disconnect the end from
the aerial and then I am faced with trying to thread a new one in.

Great fun for the Christmas holidays

Keith Willson

Faculty Registrar

Faculty of Engineering

20 Symonds Street

Auckland

Telephone 64 9 373 7599

Facsimile 64 9 367 7156

Mobile 021 377 933

The University of Auckland

Private Bag 92019

Auckland

New Zealand

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:36 pm

Can't help with the reverse beep. I did however disconnect the more annoying
beep when the key is in the ignition but the engine not running. That's
quite easy on an NB. The NA hasn't got that 'feature' so no problem there.
As for the aerial. Where has the plastic gear strip broken? Normally as long
as the aerial mast is not attached so that there is no limit to the movement
of the gear strip, it will spit it out when the aerial rises past it's fully
out position. If the strip is broken inside the motor housing then maybr
gravity will help. Take the aerial out of the car and hold it upside down.
Switch on so the aerial would extend and the reamins should fall out.
To attach the new gear and mast, with the aerial motor unit mounted
correctly, feed the gear strip into the motor and switch the radio off so it
retracts. It will grab the gear strip and pull it back in. It's easier to do
than explain! It is the mast that limits the travel so it doesn't fall out
when raised.

Grant.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:36 pm

Can't help with the reverse beep. I did however disconnect the more annoying
beep when the key is in the ignition but the engine not running. That's
quite easy on an NB. The NA hasn't got that 'feature' so no problem there.
As for the aerial. Where has the plastic gear strip broken? Normally as long
as the aerial mast is not attached so that there is no limit to the movement
of the gear strip, it will spit it out when the aerial rises past it's fully
out position. If the strip is broken inside the motor housing then maybr
gravity will help. Take the aerial out of the car and hold it upside down.
Switch on so the aerial would extend and the reamins should fall out.
To attach the new gear and mast, with the aerial motor unit mounted
correctly, feed the gear strip into the motor and switch the radio off so it
retracts. It will grab the gear strip and pull it back in. It's easier to do
than explain! It is the mast that limits the travel so it doesn't fall out
when raised.

Grant.

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:42 pm

The reversing beep is inside the reversing bulb itself I thought. At least it
is on many cars, this is a special bulb. Just swap for normal bulb.

Cheers

Gazza
"PO1SON"

poison · Post by **poison** » Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:42 pm

The reversing beep is inside the reversing bulb itself I thought. At least it
is on many cars, this is a special bulb. Just swap for normal bulb.

Cheers

Gazza
"PO1SON"

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:05 am

Hi Keith

If it is the same system as the one I removed from my wifes Toyota Carina it
is relatively easy. From memory, on the Toyota it was a small module that
plugged directly into the instrument panel printed circuit board. The most
difficult part was getting access to it. It was just a case of unplugging
the module.

Looking at the 96 MX5 harness I have just been ripping apart, it is possibly
a black module about 30 x 30 x 50 that plugs into the harness. There are
only 2 wires going to it. There are a couple of similar modules behind the
dash so make sure you get the right one. Probably the easiest way to
identify it is to engage reverse without the engine running but with the
ignition switched on and then trace where the sound is coming from. As with
finding most things behind the dash you will need a certain amount of
dexterity and a lot of patience.

Cheers
Euen

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:05 am

Hi Keith

If it is the same system as the one I removed from my wifes Toyota Carina it
is relatively easy. From memory, on the Toyota it was a small module that
plugged directly into the instrument panel printed circuit board. The most
difficult part was getting access to it. It was just a case of unplugging
the module.

Looking at the 96 MX5 harness I have just been ripping apart, it is possibly
a black module about 30 x 30 x 50 that plugs into the harness. There are
only 2 wires going to it. There are a couple of similar modules behind the
dash so make sure you get the right one. Probably the easiest way to
identify it is to engage reverse without the engine running but with the
ignition switched on and then trace where the sound is coming from. As with
finding most things behind the dash you will need a certain amount of
dexterity and a lot of patience.

Cheers
Euen

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:10 am

The reversing beep is inside the car. It is the same beep used for lights on
warning, key in ignition, air bag warning etc. It's under the dash somewhere
but very hard to locate on an NB.
The auto NA has a reversing beep as well that is inside the car. It's
obviously there to warn you that you might not proceed in the desired
direction, I assume, rather than warning pedestrians.
Is your car a NA or NB, Ken? I assume it's an auto as well. Don't think the
manuals have this (lucky them!).
Managed to disconnect the one in my Isuzu Bighorn but haven't been able to
find the one in my Honda Odyssey yet.
Grant.

From chris.tankard@aderant.com Fri Apr 27 17:39:21 2007
Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Wheels and Tyres
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 09:48:33 +1300
Thread-Topic: Wheels and Tyres
Thread-Index: AcYQJip9DkcqNVVmRPKkzVxckb0EvwAgJ92w
From: "Chris Tankard" <chris.tankard@aderant.com>
To: "MX5List" <mx5list@mx5club.org.nz>
Precedence: list
Message-ID: <heq_GD.A.01G.WGZMGB@L733>

Another vote here for the smaller / lighter tire. I currently have a
nice set of 16"'s but I would happily swap for a lighter pair of 15"'s

There is a ton of discussion regarding this on miata.net site - well
worth reading. It also have a speedo calculator where you can pop in
your wheel and type profiles and it will tell you the impact on your
speedo +/-ve.

C

________________________________

From: e-admin@mx5club.org.nz [mailto:e-admin@mx5club.org.nz] On Behalf
Of Ken Newell
Sent: Tuesday, 3 January 2006 6:22 PM
To: MX5List
Subject: Re: Wheels and Tyres

i'm with david.

i have 14" with Volks RAY racing lightweight wheels.

i run Toyo FM9R DOT legal race tyres and i've never had better grip in
an mx5.

i've had 15" and 16"s also - this in my second mx5 and i've had this one
for 8 years.

i also run adjustable Konis, eibach springs and uprated swaybars.

i've every available chassis brace, and have even replaced both frame
rails with stronger square tube.

my suspension was very harsh with 16s - i find that the 14's sidewall
flex gives me a lot of compliance.

ken

On 3/01/2006, at 6:14 PM, David wrote:

Sorry Garry I strongly disagree,

Don't get 17's.

If you want "big" wheels get 16's.

17's are just too big, too keep your speedo accurate you need pretty
thin rubber, and they'll be just too thin to enjoy driving your car.

If you have more sidewall you'll have a bit more warning when things are
about to turn "pear shaped".

ALSO .. you need to make sure what ever you get is light weight. I'd try
and get as close to the stock wheel weight as you can. Heavier wheels
tend to pull and take some fun out of the MX-5.

I've got a big set of shiny 17's sitting in the garage, the factory 15s
ride so much better.

Additionally you'll need to make sure you get the correct offset.

Sorry for the "cut and paste" response, but this question is often asked
on MX-5 / Miata forums.

My 2 cents,

Dave.

________________________________

From: e-admin@mx5club.org.nz [mailto:e-admin@mx5club.org.nz] On Behalf
Of garry
Sent: Tuesday, 3 January 2006 7:19 AM
To: MX5List
Subject: Re: Wheels and Tyres

215 40 17's are about as big as you can go, ride is no different to
uprated springs, but handling is excelent not to mention they just look
good.

Garry

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:10 am

The reversing beep is inside the car. It is the same beep used for lights on
warning, key in ignition, air bag warning etc. It's under the dash somewhere
but very hard to locate on an NB.
The auto NA has a reversing beep as well that is inside the car. It's
obviously there to warn you that you might not proceed in the desired
direction, I assume, rather than warning pedestrians.
Is your car a NA or NB, Ken? I assume it's an auto as well. Don't think the
manuals have this (lucky them!).
Managed to disconnect the one in my Isuzu Bighorn but haven't been able to
find the one in my Honda Odyssey yet.
Grant.

From chris.tankard@aderant.com Fri Apr 27 17:39:21 2007
Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: RE: Wheels and Tyres
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 09:48:33 +1300
Thread-Topic: Wheels and Tyres
Thread-Index: AcYQJip9DkcqNVVmRPKkzVxckb0EvwAgJ92w
From: "Chris Tankard" <chris.tankard@aderant.com>
To: "MX5List" <mx5list@mx5club.org.nz>
Precedence: list
Message-ID: <heq_GD.A.01G.WGZMGB@L733>

Another vote here for the smaller / lighter tire. I currently have a
nice set of 16"'s but I would happily swap for a lighter pair of 15"'s

There is a ton of discussion regarding this on miata.net site - well
worth reading. It also have a speedo calculator where you can pop in
your wheel and type profiles and it will tell you the impact on your
speedo +/-ve.

C

________________________________

From: e-admin@mx5club.org.nz [mailto:e-admin@mx5club.org.nz] On Behalf
Of Ken Newell
Sent: Tuesday, 3 January 2006 6:22 PM
To: MX5List
Subject: Re: Wheels and Tyres

i'm with david.

i have 14" with Volks RAY racing lightweight wheels.

i run Toyo FM9R DOT legal race tyres and i've never had better grip in
an mx5.

i've had 15" and 16"s also - this in my second mx5 and i've had this one
for 8 years.

i also run adjustable Konis, eibach springs and uprated swaybars.

i've every available chassis brace, and have even replaced both frame
rails with stronger square tube.

my suspension was very harsh with 16s - i find that the 14's sidewall
flex gives me a lot of compliance.

ken

On 3/01/2006, at 6:14 PM, David wrote:

Sorry Garry I strongly disagree,

Don't get 17's.

If you want "big" wheels get 16's.

17's are just too big, too keep your speedo accurate you need pretty
thin rubber, and they'll be just too thin to enjoy driving your car.

If you have more sidewall you'll have a bit more warning when things are
about to turn "pear shaped".

ALSO .. you need to make sure what ever you get is light weight. I'd try
and get as close to the stock wheel weight as you can. Heavier wheels
tend to pull and take some fun out of the MX-5.

I've got a big set of shiny 17's sitting in the garage, the factory 15s
ride so much better.

Additionally you'll need to make sure you get the correct offset.

Sorry for the "cut and paste" response, but this question is often asked
on MX-5 / Miata forums.

My 2 cents,

Dave.

________________________________

From: e-admin@mx5club.org.nz [mailto:e-admin@mx5club.org.nz] On Behalf
Of garry
Sent: Tuesday, 3 January 2006 7:19 AM
To: MX5List
Subject: Re: Wheels and Tyres

215 40 17's are about as big as you can go, ride is no different to
uprated springs, but handling is excelent not to mention they just look
good.

Garry

Registrar · Post by **Registrar** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:02 am

Grant,

Thanks for the very informative answer.

The problem is that the gear strip has snapped with about 6 inches of it
come from the base of the aerial. The problem is how does one detach the
broken bit from the inside of the aerial as it seems to be wedged in, have
tried unscrewing but to no avail. I assume there is a piece of metal
attached to the gear strip which then fits inside the aerial, the issue is -
how does one get the whole thing out.

Registrar · Post by **Registrar** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:03 am

Grant,

My car is an auto NA

Mikkels · Post by **Mikkels** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 11:42 am

Hi Keith

I had this problem with my Galant. I got the old bit out by turning the
radio on which sends the aerial up signal and grabbed the bit of plastic and
pulled it out while the motor was running. The new aerial came with the new
plastic piece attached. To fit you just feed the plastic bit in the hole
and turn the radio off which starts the motor and engages the teeth on the
plastic. Make sure you have previously removed any broken aerial from the
unit and also make sure the teeth face the right way when you insert the new
bit (should face the motor).

Good luck, mine went fine once I had all the old bits out of the mechanism.

Don

From jifjif@gmail.com Fri Apr 27 17:39:24 2007
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Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 11:51:40 +1300
From: ~Jeff~ <jifjif@gmail.com>
To: MX5List <mx5list@mx5club.org.nz>
Subject: Re: Wheels and Tyres
In-Reply-To: <000d01c60fec$14b45960$94829aca@d1h0a2>
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One thing that has crossed my mind is that with taller (and heavier)
tyres, rotational inertia might be less of an issue. Obviously this
would only apply to acceleration/deceleration (rotation) rather than
bumps . Taller tyres will also fill ou tthe wheel well nicely and give
you a smidge more ground clearance, FWIW.

Having said that, having gained some kilos going from BBS 14's and
lousy tyres to 15" Volks and 205/50 Pirellis - the added sharpness is
worth the tradeoff in ride, at least to me

The super-limited
edition M2-1001 model also came with 15"s ...

BTW - I weighed the bare 14" BBS wheels 9.7kg for 2, or under 5kg each
- more than the much hyped "8.5lb" figure on miata.net, but not too
bad...

Soo... ditch those puny mushy-riding 14"s

On 1/3/06, Tony Gavin <gavint@actrix.co.nz> wrote:
[...]

Mikkels · Post by **Mikkels** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 11:42 am

Hi Keith

I had this problem with my Galant. I got the old bit out by turning the
radio on which sends the aerial up signal and grabbed the bit of plastic and
pulled it out while the motor was running. The new aerial came with the new
plastic piece attached. To fit you just feed the plastic bit in the hole
and turn the radio off which starts the motor and engages the teeth on the
plastic. Make sure you have previously removed any broken aerial from the
unit and also make sure the teeth face the right way when you insert the new
bit (should face the motor).

Good luck, mine went fine once I had all the old bits out of the mechanism.

Don

From jifjif@gmail.com Fri Apr 27 17:39:24 2007
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Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 11:51:40 +1300
From: ~Jeff~ <jifjif@gmail.com>
To: MX5List <mx5list@mx5club.org.nz>
Subject: Re: Wheels and Tyres
In-Reply-To: <000d01c60fec$14b45960$94829aca@d1h0a2>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Message-ID: <r94vUD.A.51G.WGZMGB@L733>

One thing that has crossed my mind is that with taller (and heavier)
tyres, rotational inertia might be less of an issue. Obviously this
would only apply to acceleration/deceleration (rotation) rather than
bumps . Taller tyres will also fill ou tthe wheel well nicely and give
you a smidge more ground clearance, FWIW.

Having said that, having gained some kilos going from BBS 14's and
lousy tyres to 15" Volks and 205/50 Pirellis - the added sharpness is
worth the tradeoff in ride, at least to me

The super-limited
edition M2-1001 model also came with 15"s ...

BTW - I weighed the bare 14" BBS wheels 9.7kg for 2, or under 5kg each
- more than the much hyped "8.5lb" figure on miata.net, but not too
bad...

Soo... ditch those puny mushy-riding 14"s

On 1/3/06, Tony Gavin <gavint@actrix.co.nz> wrote:
[...]

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:42 pm

Do you have just the gear strip or is it complete with a replacement aerial
mast? With mine, and my Isuzu one (replaced three times now, off road and
low trees) I just switched the radio on and held onto the plastic strip,
pulling gently. The motor kept running allowing me to easily remove the
strip. The motor won't stop unless you remove power to it.
I assume from what you have said you have enough of the plastic strip
sticking out of the base of the aerial allowing you to grab it with some
pliers. On re-reading your description I'm now not sure. Do you mean the
strip is still attached to the motor part of the aerial or is it the
telescopic mast part you are having trouble with? At the motor end of the
strip is a small piece (lump of plastic) that the motor mechanism can grab
as it rotates in the lowering direction. It will release that lump if you
pull on the strip as it tries to raise the mast.
If you want to detach from the telescopic mast then I don't know. I've
always replaced the mast complete with the strip. I assume the strip is
crimped to the top most section of the telescopic mast..
Hope you can make some sense of that rambling reply!

Grant.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:42 pm

Do you have just the gear strip or is it complete with a replacement aerial
mast? With mine, and my Isuzu one (replaced three times now, off road and
low trees) I just switched the radio on and held onto the plastic strip,
pulling gently. The motor kept running allowing me to easily remove the
strip. The motor won't stop unless you remove power to it.
I assume from what you have said you have enough of the plastic strip
sticking out of the base of the aerial allowing you to grab it with some
pliers. On re-reading your description I'm now not sure. Do you mean the
strip is still attached to the motor part of the aerial or is it the
telescopic mast part you are having trouble with? At the motor end of the
strip is a small piece (lump of plastic) that the motor mechanism can grab
as it rotates in the lowering direction. It will release that lump if you
pull on the strip as it tries to raise the mast.
If you want to detach from the telescopic mast then I don't know. I've
always replaced the mast complete with the strip. I assume the strip is
crimped to the top most section of the telescopic mast..
Hope you can make some sense of that rambling reply!

Grant.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:47 pm

In that case, put the car in reverse with the ignition on and carefully
listen for the source of the beep. It's not easy and will probably mean you
need to be lying on your back in the footwell to try and locate it. If the
beep is only used for the reverse indication then it should be a simple
matter of unplugging it once you have found it. If it's used for other
warning (maybr airbags etc on later models) then you would need to locate
the specific wire that provides the voltage signal to the beeper when in
reverse. My 1992 model only uses the beep as a reverse warning, nothing
else. My daughter has it now so I can't check it out unfortunately.

Grant.

From supasparky@yahoo.co.uk Fri Apr 27 17:39:28 2007
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;
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 02:42:55 +0000 (GMT)
From: glenn roberts <supasparky@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wheels and Tyres
To: MX5List <mx5list@mx5club.org.nz>
In-Reply-To: <003a01c610b2$f1f55c90$0d00a8c0@garry>
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Garry...
The worst thing you can do the handling is put 17's on
stock suspension. it rides like a P.O.S.
The big thing here is unsprung weight... You put HEAVY
17's on with little give in them and they transfer all
that inertia from the heavy wheel into the suspension
system, overpowering the charcteristics that the car
is so loved for. You end up with unwanted
uncontrollable wheel hop, bump steer, harsh ride.
Oh and i forgot... if you get a flat tyre you can
kiss it goodbye as the side wall ends up damaged
beyond repair in 80% of cases meaning that a simple
flat tyre turns into a $500 PAIR of tyres.
On a smooth race track there may be some merit to big
wheels low side walls but on the road its a totally different story...
Just look at the cars that run in the targa rally...
you dont see little hatches running on 17's and 18's..
simply because they handle like rubbish.
I have 16"x7" Advan racing wheels which are about the
lightest 16" wheel you can get, with soft TOYO t1r's
and the ride is only just bearable on our country
roads, due to wheel hop.(i also have koni's)
if you want the best ride and handling then go for:
15"x7 with 205/50/15's, preferably in a Toyo T1R or Goodyear GSD3.
borrow a pair of digital scales from some where and
weigh the wheels youre interested in.
Good light wheels are:
Racing hart 15x6.5" available at most big tyre places.
Konig also do a wheel called the rewind in 15x7 "
which look like a minilight... not sure of
availability in NZ but its available in Australia.
I agree that wheels would be a good first mod but
only if you went with 15's NOT 17's!!!
I too would trade down to 15's,(only if they were
Volks or wide watanabes)
15's for go... 17's for show... take your pick.

Glenn "SLYDIT"
http://miata.cardomain.com/id/supasparky
Currently building a DIY Turbo..

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:47 pm

In that case, put the car in reverse with the ignition on and carefully
listen for the source of the beep. It's not easy and will probably mean you
need to be lying on your back in the footwell to try and locate it. If the
beep is only used for the reverse indication then it should be a simple
matter of unplugging it once you have found it. If it's used for other
warning (maybr airbags etc on later models) then you would need to locate
the specific wire that provides the voltage signal to the beeper when in
reverse. My 1992 model only uses the beep as a reverse warning, nothing
else. My daughter has it now so I can't check it out unfortunately.

Grant.

From supasparky@yahoo.co.uk Fri Apr 27 17:39:28 2007
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.co.uk;
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;
Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2006 02:42:55 +0000 (GMT)
From: glenn roberts <supasparky@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wheels and Tyres
To: MX5List <mx5list@mx5club.org.nz>
In-Reply-To: <003a01c610b2$f1f55c90$0d00a8c0@garry>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Precedence: list
Message-ID: <qk8MLB.A._1G.WGZMGB@L733>

Garry...
The worst thing you can do the handling is put 17's on
stock suspension. it rides like a P.O.S.
The big thing here is unsprung weight... You put HEAVY
17's on with little give in them and they transfer all
that inertia from the heavy wheel into the suspension
system, overpowering the charcteristics that the car
is so loved for. You end up with unwanted
uncontrollable wheel hop, bump steer, harsh ride.
Oh and i forgot... if you get a flat tyre you can
kiss it goodbye as the side wall ends up damaged
beyond repair in 80% of cases meaning that a simple
flat tyre turns into a $500 PAIR of tyres.
On a smooth race track there may be some merit to big
wheels low side walls but on the road its a totally different story...
Just look at the cars that run in the targa rally...
you dont see little hatches running on 17's and 18's..
simply because they handle like rubbish.
I have 16"x7" Advan racing wheels which are about the
lightest 16" wheel you can get, with soft TOYO t1r's
and the ride is only just bearable on our country
roads, due to wheel hop.(i also have koni's)
if you want the best ride and handling then go for:
15"x7 with 205/50/15's, preferably in a Toyo T1R or Goodyear GSD3.
borrow a pair of digital scales from some where and
weigh the wheels youre interested in.
Good light wheels are:
Racing hart 15x6.5" available at most big tyre places.
Konig also do a wheel called the rewind in 15x7 "
which look like a minilight... not sure of
availability in NZ but its available in Australia.
I agree that wheels would be a good first mod but
only if you went with 15's NOT 17's!!!
I too would trade down to 15's,(only if they were
Volks or wide watanabes)
15's for go... 17's for show... take your pick.

Glenn "SLYDIT"
http://miata.cardomain.com/id/supasparky
Currently building a DIY Turbo..

Registrar · Post by **Registrar** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:54 pm

Grant,

I Have the issue that the gear strip is hanging out from the aerial mast by
about 2 inches when the aerial is retracted. I think my best bet will be to
try and get a new strip complete with aerial although Andrew Fords in New
North Road wanted 70.00 for just the gear strip.

Regards

Keith

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 6:34 am

Check this out:

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info. ... 241797ae3f

Have a look at the reviews as well.

You can check online what the total cost including freight would be. I have
bought a few items from them and their service is very good. Parts usually
arrive within one week from placing the order. Some parts are very expensive
but others quite reasonable.

Grant.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 6:34 am

Check this out:

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/product_info. ... 241797ae3f

Have a look at the reviews as well.

You can check online what the total cost including freight would be. I have
bought a few items from them and their service is very good. Parts usually
arrive within one week from placing the order. Some parts are very expensive
but others quite reasonable.

Grant.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 6:46 am

I just went through the ordering exercise on their web site. The total cost
including freight, dekivered to New Zealand for a mast with gear strip would
be about $52.00 ($33.60 for the mast and $18.40 for freight) depending on
the exchange rate. The prices on their web site include VAT so when you
order, this is removed.

Grant.

Grant · Post by **Grant** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 6:46 am

I just went through the ordering exercise on their web site. The total cost
including freight, dekivered to New Zealand for a mast with gear strip would
be about $52.00 ($33.60 for the mast and $18.40 for freight) depending on
the exchange rate. The prices on their web site include VAT so when you
order, this is removed.

Grant.

Registrar · Post by **Registrar** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 10:17 am

Grant,

Thanks for that.
Have ordered today

Regards

Keith

From chris.tankard@aderant.com Fri Apr 27 17:39:47 2007
Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Subject: Worlds most friendly MX5 owner
Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2006 13:13:01 +1300
Thread-Topic: Worlds most friendly MX5 owner
Thread-Index: AcYSVfT8jOmqUEXOTG6eUixZQLAiZg==
From: "Chris Tankard" <chris.tankard@aderant.com>
To: <mx5list@mx5club.org.nz>
Precedence: list
Message-ID: <zUokGD.A.g2G.WGZMGB@L733>

If I owned a retail business this is one guy who I would never get to
work as a salesman.

Or if your looking for some small / light wheels for your MX5 ...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... /Wheels-ty
res/Alloy-wheels/auction-44113616.htm

Who is online