Cables for window regulator

Eugene · Post by **Eugene** » Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:22 pm

I've had my MX5 for a while now but recently I've been having issues with the driver's side window (went down, but very slow going up until eventually it won't go up again!)

I've taken the regulator out and had a look and one of the cables has frayed so that it jumps the track inside the regulator - to the point it has gotten mis-shapen.

So it looks like my best option is to replace the cable (or get the whole thing re-conditioned).

Can someone give me some advice on where I can go to either get new cables made or re-condition the regulator at a reasonable price?

P.S. great site, I've already spent a few hours looking around and picking up tips along the way.

Post by **jif** » Sat Nov 17, 2007 11:14 pm

Hi and welcome Eugene....

looks like Ross has what you're after:
http://www.mx5mart.co.nz/db.cgi?db=mart ... records2=1

Jeff

DBM58 · Post by **DBM58** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:34 pm

Hi Eugene

I have had some success replacing this cable with a bicycle brake / gear cable. The difference in cost is $10 compared to $100 and more for the regulator. You will have to spend the time dismantling / rebuilding whichever option you choose. If you have a mind to fix it yourself, I can send you some notes that I made on the repair.

I am in Royal Oak, Auckland if you would like a hand.

poison · Post by **poison** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 5:14 pm

Didn’t you have trouble getting the end soldered/brazed on?? What did you do in the end (or should that be ON the end..)?

DBM58 · Post by **DBM58** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 8:47 pm

Sorry that it has taken so long to reply. Yes I did initially have trouble, but nothing that forethought could have prevented.

i) As soldering is weaker than the original method of securing the cabe to the ferrule (braizing?), it is better to cut the cable to longer than the original. This means that the end can stick through the holein the ferrule and protrude far enough to split the individual strands and splay them to give a better anchor.

ii) Given the amount of effort to fix the one broken end, it would be sensible to treat the other end as well whilst the mechanism is disassembled.

iii) I should have spent more time ensuring that the window was moving up and down as freely as it could. This minimises the strain placed on the cable. This step is crucial regardlee of whether you choose to repair the cable or replace the entire mechanism.

With the benefit of having fixed this a couple of times, I would think that the whole job could be done in less than two hours and cost only $10 for the cable. Whilst it was frustrating at times, I put the time taken at zero cost as it is part of the enjoyment of having the car.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:11 am

You need to lube the rubber runners for the glass with white Lithium spray lube and use Molysulphide grease to do the steel channels and regulator internals.

The lithium spray will get all over the windows but it easily removed with meths and then window cleaner.