Heated oxygen sensor wiring

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warrior
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Heated oxygen sensor wiring

Post by warrior » Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:11 pm

Does anyone have or know the wiring for a heated oxygen sensor to fit a 1992 NA?

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Post by Mazda-mender » Mon Dec 30, 2013 9:40 am

Why whats wrong buddy.
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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Dec 30, 2013 9:45 am

What brand and how many wires?

Mine is a four wire and I installed it like this..
Red= +12v
Black= ground
White connects to the single wire,was black in my car [connector by the cas] from the old sensor that goes to the ecu
Blue is used for aux datalogging such as lap-top if required.
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Post by 4A-GE » Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:52 pm

Blue is the hollywood wire? :lol:

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Post by 2low2c » Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:57 pm

wot i'm not sure which brand of sensor you are useing but that wiring looks wrong to me the most common 4 wire sensors are wired
Grey (signal ground) or White
White (heater) or Black
White (heater) or Black
Black (signal) or Blue
i think your should be
blue(signal ground)
red(heater)
black (heater)
white (signal)
i have never seen a 4 wire with 2 outputs

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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Dec 30, 2013 1:35 pm

Perhaps you need to explain my limited o2 sensor knowledge! :D
Attachments
ox2 001.jpg
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Post by 2low2c » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:08 pm

ok that is a wideband gauge\controler not a narrow band 4 wire, your actual sensor is a 5 wire

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Post by warrior » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:16 pm

Car has aftermarket headers etc and runs rough until things heat up. Have not got a heated one yet.

So does brand matter? I guess I am looking for a three wire sensor then.

and the three wires will be

Black : earth
red : 12v
blue? : the wire that goes where the standard one does.
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Post by 2low2c » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:22 pm

a 3 wire sensor is
red +
black -
white ecu signal

warrior
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Post by warrior » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:49 pm

Thanks, any advantage/dis with going to a 3 wire?

and if I had to go to a four wire where does there extra wire go to?
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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:54 pm

2low2c wrote:ok that is a wideband gauge\controler not a narrow band 4 wire, your actual sensor is a 5 wire
So whats the 5th wire?
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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:11 pm

warrior wrote:Thanks, any advantage/dis with going to a 3 wire?

and if I had to go to a four wire where does there extra wire go to?
As I posted earlier the 4th is for an auxiliary input such as laptop,etc. if you are in to that sort of thing.
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Post by 2low2c » Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:25 pm

a narrow band sensor has 1,3or 4 wires , 1wire is not heated,a 3 wire is heated and asignal ,a 4 wire is heated has a sgnal and a signal earth more acurat than a 3 wire .
a wide band sensor is heated, a signal out,a signal ground and a 5v in.
W O T you are looking at the gauge out puts not the sensor .

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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:43 pm

1989 NA 1650
1998 NB 1800
2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
Surfboard
Push-bike
Hiking shoes

warrior
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Post by warrior » Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:15 pm

I am now looking into a wideband for my supercharged car, does the wideband sensor replace the standard sensor or does it run seperately..
warrior

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Post by NicF » Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:11 am

As I understand it you want to put it further downstream than the original sensor, so it will replace it electrically but in a different location.
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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:11 am

It replaces the narrow band sensor in the same position.
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Post by NicF » Mon Jan 13, 2014 8:55 am

Maybe they just say further downstream for turbos? I know innovate say at least 8 inches from the turbo and as far as possible before the cat. My standard o2 sensor is very close to the head on the no. 4 pipe of the extractors so will only be working on one cylinder anyway.
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Because RWD is ALWAYS more fun

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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Jan 13, 2014 9:39 am

I don't have a CAT and the sensor is about 8" away from the turbo and best if the sensor is angled downwards too so I have read.Warriors car being SC might need to be different?
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warrior
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Post by warrior » Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:28 am

Ok just picked up a wideband and I need a bit of help with the wireing. It has a controller box that I am unsure on a couple of wires. The gauge and oxygen sensor plug into the controller box then the wires feed from there. The first four wires called the power harness look easy.....
black, engine ground
white, 12v + ignition swith
red, battery
orange, headlight switch 12v (+)

Then there are three wires that come out of the controller box I am unsure of. The output is called the analog output.

this is what the instructions say.

black, ground ( no problems there)

Here are the two I am unsure of

brown, wideband analog output 0-5v

green, narrow band analog output 0-1v

if someone could help on where the last two wires go that would be great.
warrior

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Post by SLYDIT » Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:39 am

what sort of wideband is it?
is it a gauge or controller? why do you need a headlight input on the power??
the two analogue outputs are...one signal wire outputs a 0-1volt signal just like a narrowband. so if you were running a standard ECU, this wire would hook up to the standard 02 sensor wire to the ECU the other is 0-5 volts which is more accurate and often hooked into data loggers and after market ECU's for tuning/logging.

what ECU do you run?
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warrior
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Post by warrior » Mon Jan 13, 2014 3:43 pm

It is a gauge and controller, I am running a standard ECU.

So is this a waste of time using a wideband on a standard ECU?
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Post by warrior » Mon Jan 13, 2014 3:46 pm

The headlight switch thing is just a suggestion on where to get the power from, so I am guessing that would be acc power.
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Post by CordedBowl » Mon Jan 13, 2014 4:06 pm

The headlight wire is so it can dim/brighten depending on what you do with your lights (ie. The gauge cluster lights up when your headlights come on) I think.

You can run the sensor to the gauge so you can monitor your AFRs (which is still important no matter what ecu, I don't know what you'd be doing if you were running a supercharger on the stock ecu though)

You can also output the wideband to an aftermarket ECU for logging and tuning like SLYDIT mentioned (but it is not necessary in the case of just wanting the gauge readout)

For instance I have an older Link that doesn't have wideband input directly, but with the wideband sensor reading from the gauge I can still tune accordingly so I don't run too lean or too rich.

I'm not sure if a wideband can replace a narrowband with the stock ECU (I'm guessing it can't, but I'm sure someone could clear that up (from the above posts it looks like you can))

Edit: I don't claim to be an expert on this but I'm pretty sure that's the general idea. Edited to clarify my vague cellphone post.

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Heated oxygen sensor wiring

Post by jif » Mon Jan 13, 2014 4:48 pm

The value is in adjusting AFR to where it should be - that's pretty limited with a stock ECU altho you can do things like twiddle with the AFM tension, fuel pressure .

The wideband "narrowband" output should at least be more reliable reading-wise than a real narrowband, as NB relies heavily on temperature and voltage being in the expected range.


ie the "swing" point varies on the sensor's temp (which is why the heater and location is important ;)
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/tech-info-o ... ensors.cfm



something like that anyway.







On 13 January 2014 15:43, warrior <electrical@mx5forum.co.nz (electrical@mx5forum.co.nz)> wrote:
It is a gauge and controller, I am running a standard ECU.

So is this a waste of time using a wideband on a standard ECU?

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warrior





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