NA Shock Removal

Angreal · Post by **Angreal** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 6:51 pm

I've managed to swap out the rear shocks fine, but I can't get the front ones out. I've undone the 2 bolts holding the shock in at the top, undone the bottom bolt on the shock, and undone the sway bar bolt.

The problem is, I don't know how to get the whole assembly to drop low enough for me to pull the shock unit out. To get around it at the rear I undid the A-arm but I have no idea how to do it at the front as it has a ball joint.

Should I be compressing the spring in order to get the whole unit smaller? If yes, does anyone have a spare one I can use briefly?

Thanks

Keith Jones · Post by **Keith Jones** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 7:44 pm

You have to separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle.
That allows the wishbones to move independantly and you should be able to fiddle the assembly out through the top wishbone.

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 8:09 pm

Also watch out for the brake hose you might stretch it-turn the hub so the rear of it is inward.

Angreal · Post by **Angreal** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 8:15 pm

How do I separate the two at the knuckle? Is there any special technique?

Thanks

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 8:32 pm

You ideally need a ball-joint puller [or you can use the cowboy method by heating the casing and at the same time upward pressure on the threaded stud & using two hammers simutaneously hitting the casing at opposite sides].....or you can remove the nut/bolt below the bottom of the shock on the suspension arm and this will also remove the hub & then the shock /spring will come out.with downward force[brake line as above post].

Euen · Post by **Euen** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 8:33 pm

If you don't have a ball joint removal tool you can also separate the assembly at the lower ball joint by removing the 2 bolts that hold the lower knuckle/ball joint to the lower arm. There is a bolt under the lower shock mount and a horizontal bolt through the bottom arm. The ball joint assembly then pulls out of the arm. The only downside of this method is that the upright assembly is hanging from the upper arm which means you have to support that while you push down on the lower arm to give you enough clearance to remove the shock.

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 8:54 pm

Remove bolt arrowed

RMS · Post by **RMS** » Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:55 pm

Edit: didn't read your comments on string compressor..

If you have spring compressors you can compress the spring while it's still in the car, remove the top strut nut, remove the top hat and if you push the strut tube/suspension arms down you will have enough room to remove the strut.

Instructions on the miata.net garage: http://www.miata.net/garage/shocks.html

Might not be everyone's preferred method but I found it to be effective.

That said, when I was doing the bushings on my car I had to remove the ball joints and it was actually really easy with the two hammers technique. You just need to hit it really hard and accurately. I guess the second hammer is to stop the impact from stressing the suspension arm? like a newtons cradle?

I wasn't keen to remove the ball joints before this, must have been traumatised from having to do this on my mini

Brainflex · Post by **Brainflex** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 9:14 am

Easiest way is to remove the long bolt for the top wishbone, the one that bolts it to the subframe. Undo nut slide bolt forward and the whole thing tilts outwards to remove coilover. Takes 1 hr to swap both front this way. Just remember to tighten everything up with vehicle weight on them.

Angreal · Post by **Angreal** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 12:23 pm

Thanks for the help. After spending this morning cursing lots and getting nowhere, I threw it into the "too hard" basket. I'll get them swapped out sometime when I get the car serviced.

Can anyone recommend somewhere that can do the swap, change my spark plugs (which I have but no socket long enough), put on some steel lines for me and weld a bracket to a pipe for me and not cost the world?

Thanks

sprsta · Post by **sprsta** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:27 pm

give us a txt i could do it one saturday or after work if you like

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:42 pm

Brainflex, the way you mentioned, do you still need spring compressors?

I picked up HSD coilovers from trademe today and have fitted the rears with no problem....

Was going to buy spring compressors tomorrow but i vaguely recall the Flying Miata guys books saying remove the bolt method as well....?

Mark....

Brainflex · Post by **Brainflex** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:21 am

No need for spring compressors doing the long bolt method. I got it from Keith Tanners book. Works a treat. Lube up the bolt when you put it back in and its even easier next time.

Mad Kiwi · Post by **Mad Kiwi** » Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:23 am

Right.......God save the long bolt method!!!!

DONE!

Phew, I even called the mechanic to see if he could fit it in this morning, he was a bit ummmm, aaghhh.

So I decided to give it a go. About an hour and a half to do both sides.

Couple of catches.

The pastic undertray gets in the way, you DONT have to remove it, do the one bolt in the area it is in the way and that part of the plastic undertray can fold under the sway bar out the way.

The second thing is when removing the long bolt it only gets half way out and then hits something. This is an upside down bolt protruding in to the path of the long bolt tha is hard to see, if you track it down and undo it half way it allows the long bolt to slide all the way out....

Oh and when redoing the sway bar up, wait until both sides are undone, it makes getting it back lined up a lot easier.

Special use of the jack to line things up, not a spring compressor in site and all sorted..

Thanks for the help

NA Shock Removal

NA Shock Removal

NA Shock Removal

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