Changing the brake pads.

MrGrey · Post by **MrGrey** » Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:17 pm

I am going to replace my front and rear brakepads and was wondering if anyone knew what size hex fitting I will require to remove the 2 hexbolts that clamp the calipers together? Also, once I have the calipers off, what is the best method for pressing in the cylinders to fit the new pads? would a simple G clamp suffice?

yeah....
I'm a noob, but I'm trying to get better!

Angreal · Post by **Angreal** » Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:29 pm

from memory there are a whole bunch of 14mm and one 17mm bolt/nut that need to be removed and the g clamp works (well it worked when I did it once upon a time).

It's all very simple to do

dylann · Post by **dylann** » Sun Mar 24, 2013 10:33 pm

for the front if you undo the lower 14mm nut on the back of the caliper you can just tilt the caliper up then take out the old pads.
the g clamp is great to push the piston back in, you can do it by hand apparently but i never managed to do it. im sure the rears are just as easy.

also remember to gently pump the brake pedal before you go to drive it again, otherwise your foot will go straight to the floor haha, my dad says that you could ruin the cylinder or something because it isnt used to being pushed all the way in.

Keith Jones · Post by **Keith Jones** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 10:38 am

For the rears you have to back the pistons off using an Allen key. Access to the adjusting screw is through the hole after you take out the 8mm (12mm head) bolt on the back of the caliper.
After you have put the new pads in, screw the pistons in using the Allen key until the rotors just start to bind, then back the screw off until the rotor is just turning freely.

Growler · Post by **Growler** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 12:56 pm

Keith Jones wrote:For the rears you have to back the pistons off using an Allen key. Access to the adjusting screw is through the hole after you take out the 8mm (12mm head) bolt on the back of the caliper.
After you have put the new pads in, screw the pistons in using the Allen key until the rotors just start to bind, then back the screw off until the rotor is just turning freely.

Hehehe...Ya beat me to it...
Try not to swing on the allen key as it is easy to bend/strip the teeth on the end of the adjusting screw. (The Hanyes manual says to use a 6.5mm allen key but a 4.5mm - 5.0mm allen key is needed).

WideOpenThrottle · Post by **WideOpenThrottle** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:15 pm

Dont forget to release the handbrake fully

harlansmart · Post by **harlansmart** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:34 pm

Someone (please) move this discussion about brakes to the 'MX5 Suspension, Wheels, Tyres & Brakes etc' Forum.

Where it belongs.

MrGrey · Post by **MrGrey** » Mon Mar 25, 2013 11:12 pm

sigh, sorry about that, I feel like a tard

MrGrey · Post by **MrGrey** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 6:58 pm

ok, i changed the front pads today.... went pretty smoothly (even painted the calipers red to increase my douchebag poser factor by 2.86%)

however, the new pads did not have holes for the anti rattle springs so I didn't put them in.... is this a normal procedure in this instance? Anyhow, I took it for a test drive and didn't hear any odd squeaks or anything of that nature so I assume its fine.

SLYDIT · Post by **SLYDIT** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:06 pm

TRUST ME
remove your pads and drill them for the anti rattle clips ESPECIALLY the rear ones.
some FWIT chucked all the clips off mine before i bought the car and the rears sound like a primary school tap dance class every time i drive around the tauranga CBD.

Changing the brake pads.

Changing the brake pads.

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