Axle nut removal techniques?

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siren676
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Axle nut removal techniques?

Post by siren676 » Sat Jan 12, 2013 6:53 pm

Im trying to start swapping my viscous to a torsen but am stuck on the first step. The 29mm axle nuts arent budging.
I have already knocked the punch marks back to allow the nuts to move.
Have soaked the nuts with crc a few times and leant on them with a 1/2" drive prybar and a 2m cheater bar with no luck.

Are there any other techniques that i could try or do i have to find a rattle gun?
1990 NA6C MX5

Snapfrozen
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Post by Snapfrozen » Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:01 pm

Heat... Got a small butane gun?

brownie
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Post by brownie » Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:46 pm

With your prybar on put a tube bar over the top,more leverage,if you are using a decent 3 ton jack ,the handle will be perfect

siren676
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Post by siren676 » Sat Jan 12, 2013 11:08 pm

Thats what i meant by 2m cheater bar :lol: got dad to have a swing at it and the power bar broke :lol:

Image

Snapfrozen wrote:Heat... Got a small butane gun?
Dads probably got one lying around somewhere but im just going to take it to his work as they've got a 3/4" drive rattle gun that they normally use on heavy
machinery which will get the nuts off
1990 NA6C MX5

brownie
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Post by brownie » Sun Jan 13, 2013 10:40 pm

go 3/4 drive ,thats what we use at work,We did have to go fairly hard to get the axles out of the hubs,But we are used to it and have "Special" tools made for the job.

Worst case,take the hubs and axles out in one piece and get them into a workshop with a kickarse compressor and rattle gun don't pussyfoot with cheap or undersized tools.
Absolute worst case,Cold chisel and hammer and split the nuts in half,Still will need to get the axle out of the hub though,If the nuts are that bad ,axles could be seized in place.
Put it back together with copper coat,Stops seizing next time you need to get it apart,If you need to.

siren676
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Post by siren676 » Sun Jan 13, 2013 11:37 pm

:lol: Im guessing you know "someone" who has some hubs they'd want to sell me incase mine are seized. Also didnt get any spare nuts or bolts with the diff so dont want to break anything.

Im thinking about taking it to my usual mechanic on tues to see if they can crack the nuts or getting them to do the whole swap
1990 NA6C MX5

WideOpenThrottle
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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:20 am

The tightening torque is 157-215 ftlbs so its going to take a bit to crack them free.

Also, and this is for me to know as i will be putting in a 4.1 diff sometime....is one side a left hand thread like i used to find on some ford laser/323 rear wheels?...if so can anyone confirm if the mx is both right hand thread or is one left hand is well?
1989 NA 1650
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2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
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Furai
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Post by Furai » Mon Jan 14, 2013 11:03 am

WideOpenThrottle wrote:The tightening torque is 157-215 ftlbs so its going to take a bit to crack them free.

Also, and this is for me to know as i will be putting in a 4.1 diff sometime....is one side a left hand thread like i used to find on some ford laser/323 rear wheels?...if so can anyone confirm if the mx is both right hand thread or is one left hand is well?
Both are right hand. I was very lucky mine were all greased and just slid out, I used a 1m bar and just craked them with the handbrake on and the wheels on the ground.

WideOpenThrottle
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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Jan 14, 2013 1:15 pm

Ta! Furai
1989 NA 1650
1998 NB 1800
2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
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Euen
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Post by Euen » Mon Jan 14, 2013 6:19 pm

Just a small point, Mazda recommend that you replace the hub nuts with new ones. Not sure why but may have something to do with the damage caused when they peened into the keyway.
TG Sports, classic roadster - modern technology. NA1800, 99 head, 11:1 +2mm Wiseco pistons, Link LEM, Alloy f/wheel, JR headers.

siren676
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Post by siren676 » Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:00 pm

Or the damage caused to the threads while trying to undo them? :lol:

Who would keep them in stock? Repco/supercheap or will i have to try mazda themselves?
1990 NA6C MX5

WideOpenThrottle
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Post by WideOpenThrottle » Mon Jan 14, 2013 7:08 pm

More likely Mazda...but also try BNT & Partmaster,Appco, etc
1989 NA 1650
1998 NB 1800
2005 NC 2000
1990 Landcruiser
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Post by Snapfrozen » Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:30 pm

ALOT of companies will not sell the nuts without the respective CV's... Used to have to order mine online for my Civic

Euen
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Post by Euen » Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:55 pm

I bought them from Mazda. They also come in some of the after market CV kits. I have couple of spares if you can wait till ext week.
TG Sports, classic roadster - modern technology. NA1800, 99 head, 11:1 +2mm Wiseco pistons, Link LEM, Alloy f/wheel, JR headers.

brownie
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Post by brownie » Mon Jan 14, 2013 10:45 pm

siren676 wrote::lol: Im guessing you know "someone" who has some hubs they'd want to sell me incase mine are seized. Also didnt get any spare nuts or bolts with the diff so dont want to break anything.

Im thinking about taking it to my usual mechanic on tues to see if they can crack the nuts or getting them to do the whole swap
We will,But you will get them,Sold the NB set up today,been in the weather for a couple of months,Came apart with persuasion and a good multi lube,
If you can find it,Get Cyclo Break away,Distributed by Valvoline,Cheap and bloody mint for sorting out frozen nuts and bolts,
Makes CRC look like water lube,This stuff penetrates,Better than Wurth and that muti lube is good.

If you need a couple of nuts,let me know,Will have some mint used ones at work,just away for a couple of days,Back Thursday.

siren676
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Post by siren676 » Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:56 pm

Cheers for the offer dude, ill see how i get on with it when dad gets home.

Took the car down to my mechanic this morning and they hit it with their 3/4" drive rattle gun and they still didnt budge :lol:
In the end they used a 3/4" power bar with a massive extension and freeze spray to get them undone.

Got a replacement 1/2" power on the way home from repco only to find dads taken his toolbox with the 29mm socket to work with him :lol:
1990 NA6C MX5

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