I've used bees wax furniture polish on stitching. Works well.

To repair cracks in the rain rail, I used Flashtac tape. It is an aluminium foil tape with a bitumous backing. I used about half a roll to hold my rain rail together. Car is nice and dry inside now.

If you are traveling south on Great South Road, just before Sylvia Park Road there are several man-hole covers sitting proud of the road surface that have already destroyed a couple of sumps (not mine). The road is being resurfaced and these covers have been left above the surface. There is a bit of...

Either that or the knock sensor. Neither of which should be difficult to obtain.

It would help if you told us what year/model of car you have. To the best of my knowledge there is no fuel mapping sensor on the NA or NB MX5.

Well, it wasn't exhaust gas temps or detonation. Seems that the a couple of valve guides had started to disintegrate. Not sure why, but they are cast iron ones and will be replaced with bronze ones. Engine was probably due for a refresh anyway. 5 years of competition takes its toll.

Style bars on MX5s were once supposedly referred to by a Motorsport NZ official as "heated towel rails". They probably give about as much protection in a roll-over.

Valves are all ok. The dark patch on one in the photo was just some oil on the valve. AFR is set to between 12 and 13:1 so shouldn't be an issue. Have stripped the inlet manifold and throttle body and no sign of missing parts. Throttle spindle/screws have been araldited to try and stop it falling ap...

Nope. Took the head off tonight and it looks like something has got into No 3 cylinder. Small amount of damage to the chamber on 2 as well. There is still something embedded in the head on No 3 which is likely to be causing the tapping we could hear. The air filter is still intact so I can only assu...

Unfortunately my time on Targa Rotorua was cut short on Sunday morning by a little demon inside the engine tapping on the inside of the block.

Getting ready to pull the engine out but to cheer myself up I decided to hang my new Maxim Works header on the head to see how it fitted.

Pretty!

Another option ADL.

It varies a little depending on age but some have a transverse cross brace under the floor at the rear of the front cross member. There is also a ladder brace that runs rearwards from the rear bulkhead to the rear subframe which braces up the inner mounting points for the bottom suspension arms in t...

Took a guided walk around the circuit in January and it is absolutely fantastic. They can have 3 independent circuits as well as a separate Kart track and a small kids track and a museum. The attention to detail is great.

I used to get a lot of axle hop on take off in the TG, even with the Energy diff mount bushes. Fitting the Beatrush PPF brace seems to have sorted it though. Ran 6 stages on the Targa Rallysprint and no axle hop on take off.

mjrstar wrote:It depends on what exedy you are talking about, exedy australia are rubbish yet exedy japan do some pretty decent stuff..

+1

I am running a 3 puck Exedy in the TG and it has been great. The Aussie one I had was rubbish. The 3 puck is the same one used in the Spec Miata championship in the US.

Have a look at the "Nice Products" catalogues here.

http://niceproducts.com.au/catalogues/w ... shpump.php

Davie Holden in Manukau are the agents and generally have good stocks. Their prices weren't too horrendous either.

If you are careful you can rotate the pinion and count the number of rotations required to turn the axle/crown wheel once. If you have the diff head out of the ally housing, there is a number stamped on the crown wheel which tells you the ratio. eg a 4.1 will be stamped "1245" More info here http://...

A bit on the pricey side but Flyin Miata stock the V8 Roadsters bottom front arms which have an extra adjuster on the outer knuckle.

http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid= ... %20%20LEFT

On the rear they put the extra adjuster on the top arm.

Try Arctic Autos, 021 957 299. He is mobile and will come to you.

funny you mention the suspension as RH REAR to get ride height needs to be totally uncaptive spring but LH side spring is wound up and captive some. and opposite to the front as LH uncaptive and RH is captive...had to lower it heaps with the 15s on it and with 17s i had before the springs were neve...

You learn something new every day. I wasn't aware there was a "polished" option available

authentic wrote:I'm keen on the polished look.

You won't get a polished look with HPC.

And the dipstick for the VVT BP (>2001) is different again.

The BP one is longer than the B6. The BP one I have came off an Astina.

The other thing to watch out for is that the connection for the PCV and crank case ventilation are in different places.

Have a talk to Kayne. He may be able to adjust the clutch set-up on it (assuming you want to keep it) to make it a bit smoother. He set up my OSG and it is great.

How bad is it? Is it the LSD or the gears? Maybe get Kayne Barrie to have a look at it. He may be able to find some way of resurrecting it.